So I got my macaroni and cheese today. Good homemade oven baked real cheese stuff, i.e., no powdered cheese (scary).
Jeff and I are still debating our trip. Today it looks like we won't be going. If that's so, I will decide another time what to do about traveling within the country.

Couple of nights ago, I went with my cousin Chinh (from San Francisco) and friends Daniel, Thierry, and Youri, to Tuan's birthday party at a nightclub called Hazard where we were met with Saigon's elite gay community, loud music, and dancing. It was an incredible lot of fun. The day after I went out with Linh, Chuong, and Chinh again and had dinner with some other relatives, then off to a small music club where they play live Peruvian music as well as some of Vietnam's typical repertoire of American oldies.

Have had a stomach ache most of today. Work is still super busy. Sent out another proposal today, designed a spread on Harley Davidson's new V-Rod for our auto magazine, and edited some of next month's new Guidebook.

This morning Souris called me from NY. That was fantastic. It's always good to hear from all of you at home. Suddenly I have a bit of a head cold. Gotta get some rest.
Ciao carissimi.
hani

Sai Gon, September 24, 2001.
It's nighttime now, and I've just received several notes from Jeff. We are going to reschedule our trip for next week, and spend two weeks travelling along Vietnam’s Pacific Coast. Surely, our mood is a bit more anxious than before, and a bit more subdued, but we are glad to be moving forward with our adventure as we had planned since March. We are still taking time in our lives to discover a faraway land that is new to both of us (I have only seen about 5-10% of this country in the last eight months). I will take lots of pictures of these extraordinary places and send them to Souris to post on her soldier site and you can all finally have some new landscapes to view.

Today my 93 year old grandmother was supposed to make homemade macaroni and cheese (using the staff at home as her eyes & hands) but the head cook was out, and so I came home somewhat disappointed. You know that feeling you have, when you are really really craving something, and you are about to get it and then you suddenly discover that it’s not available? Utter disappointment. So I settled for some lo mein noodles with sauteed veggies & chicken.

I have just returned from a very relaxing weekend to Phan Thiet with Linh, my cousin Chuong, and his friend Oanh. It was good for me, as it always is, to go out to Phan Thiet. I spent time walking along the warm sandy beach with Linh at night, and in the afternoon, spent some time sleeping on the beach. In the mornings, I never wake up early enough to see the sun rise over the Pacific, and got quite a bit of rest instead. These last two trips out there, I’ve spent a lot of time idling aimlessly, and this weekend there was an unusual view of all the Mui Ne fishing boats close into the beach front.

Work in Saigon is normal. I am bored of it, and am being forced into added unpaid responsibilities that eat into my travel time. Unacceptable. I think people forget I am retired. I only work for fun.

Tomorrow I’m going to a birthday party for my new friend Tuan, whom I met through new friends, Daniel and Thierry, also from out in Phan Thiet. And speaking of birthdays, I am wishing a good one to Greg Smiley, albeit belated.

The Autumn Moon Celebration is the end of the week. Moon cakes are selling, well, like hot cakes, and are made with a variety of ingredients ranging from roasted duck to lotus seeds. They’re a bit too sweet for my taste, but they’re an important part of the festivities. The festival, called Tet Trung Thu (Lunar Autumn new year) lights up the night with colorful paper lanterns, family gatherings, dancing, and singing.

Reports on life in Vietnam will continue on Thursday.
Baci,
Hani

Sai Gon, September 24, 2001.
Below is a letter from my friend Lisa, who works for Robin Hood, an innovative, inspirational foundation (like you've never seen) whose objective is to end poverty in New York City - done in Robin Hood smart fashion and which means many pioneering programs. Their Board underwrites all administrative expenses so that every penny (100% of your contribution) Robin Hood receives goes to the organizations they support. I ask you for your capable support. So many of you have always been so generous to me in the past efforts I've encountered for the AIDS rides and friends of mine from the rides. Many of you who read my blogspot have never met me, and so I post this letter here, for those whose email addresses I do not have. Even if you can not donate at this time, I would emphasize again, that browsing their website is worth the visit. Thanks for reading.

Hi,
This is a letter from my dear friend Lisa in New York City. I am sending it
to you because you have shown me your kindness and generosity before, and if
you are able, I hope you would do the same now.

Robin Hood has many many programs that I find wholly worthwhile and
inspirational, and encourage you to browse their website. It is an
incredibly innovative program and the people behind it are absolutely
amazing, if I can generalize by what I know of Lisa Kirt.

Please email Lisa or call or contact the numbers below if you can help. Lisa
is at lkirt@yahoo.com
With much love and thanks,
Hani

----- Original Message -----
From: lisa kirt
To: Hani Hong
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 11:34 PM
Subject: Robin Hood Relief Fund

Dear Hani:

THANKS for spreading the word about the Robin Hood Relief Fund. In response
to the World Trade Center attack, Robin Hood is raising money to ensure that
those who are unprotected financially, socially, and emotionally receive
essential and effective support services in recovering from the disaster.
Since 1988, Robin Hood has built a donor base from the Wall Street community
which supports innovative and effective programs to fight poverty in New
York City. As you can imagine, our donor base is devastated by this event.

Donations can be made online, by mail, or by phone.

To donate online:

www.helping.org/donate/rhf_donate.adp

To donate by mail:

Robin Hood
attn: Lisa Kirt/Robin Hood Relief Fund
1211 Avenue of the Americas, 18th Floor
New York, NY 10036

please address checks to ROBIN HOOD RELIEF FUND

To donate by phone:

212-901-4325

To learn more about Robin Hood:

www.robinhood.org


If any of your folks donates online, I'd appreciate an email, so I can track
the Hani Hong progress for you! (I can't promise candy bars this time, but
I *will* make sure people get thanked profusely.)

Hani, many thanks & mucho amor. I am still suffering shock & stress -- but
working on this project makes me feel better.

love, Lisa

I'm back from Phan Thiet. Had a good trip and spent time sleeping on the beach.
Jeff and I are in the process of re-planning our trip, and hopefully we will take up on our adventure in just about a week, if we can.
I will blog more later.
H.

Saigon. September 20, 2001
I'm going back out to Phan Thiet tomorrow with some friends and family. Will be at the beach through Sunday.
Will blog again when I get back.
Have heard much from those of you back home and am grateful for it. Keep your letters coming.
I plan on remaining in Vietnam through February, to celebrate Tet with the locals before I return to the States.
Am relatively well. I've been spending a lot of time out lately and it has peaceful.
Much love to everyone.
un bacione,
hani

September 19, 2001. Sai Gon.
I am registered at the US Consulate here in HCMC under my legal name, Lan Dung Thi Hong. My home address is
1B Cu Xa Ngan Hang
Tran Xuan Soan, District 7, HCMC
Tel: 84-8 872-4539
DongDuCafe: 84-8 823 2414

Work is Minh Nhat Company (ask for Hani)
51-53 Vo Van Tan, District 3, HCMC
Tel: 84-8 930-5812 / 930-1388

My cell phone is 84 091 343 8920

My permanent home address in Arlington is
5508 N. Carlin Springs Road
Arlington, VA 22203-1202
Tel: 703-525-2784
Emergency Contacts:
Chuong Giu Hong / Bach Tuyet Hong – dad & mom, Arlington, 703-525-2784
Kiki/Cathy Hong – sister, Atlanta, work 678-336-2000, chong@atv.com
Kelly Hong – sister, New York work @ BMG, 212-930-6727, Kelly.hong@bmgdirect.com
Souris Hong – sister, New York cell - 917-687-2332, souris@fakefunk.com

All friends and family have access to my whereabouts through the Vietnamese US Consulate & Embassy offices. I have signed a waiver for such information to be distributed to any of you in case you inquire.

Over the past week, I have had a thousand thoughts, and have communicated often with all of you back home. Instead of writing a compendious blog about what I thought and felt, below is a conglomeration of messages sent to different friends and family that describe what I’ve been going through.

---------------

My family is safe. I was out on Tuesday, and arrived home at 10 p.m. Saigon time. The phone rang – it was mom. She called to tell me that she and dad and Kiki were all okay in Arlington and that Kaly and Souris were both in contact from New York. I asked her what happened so she put Kiki on to tell me. I didn't really believe it, and my reaction was almost comical "I miss everything!" I said to Ki. But there was nothing funny about this. I immediately bolted upstairs and turned CNBC on and the internet and got online with Souris and other friends in NY. I watched and I wrote and I cried and I cried. My sisters are both safe. Souris watched the explosion of the second building upon impact, and the crumbling of the towers from outside of her home in Soho – she’s at Sullivan & Broome where it meets 6th Avenue – in direct view of the Towers. A man next to her fainted. Everyone stood on the street and cried.

I watched live CNBC coverage till 5 a.m., and managed to contact many close friends immediately. Both New York and Arlington are my homes; the two places I feel closest to, and I didn’t think anyone in Vietnam would understand the proximity of the tragedy for me. Our skyline is forever changed - it is really difficult to grasp, until I go to New York again and see for myself that our towers are gone. It is also difficult to see the footage, and think - "I KNOW that corner. I've BEEN there. That's my HOME." It's very frustrating to be far away. In many ways, I wish I was in NY to be with those I love who consider NY their home as well. It is as shocking to anyone around the world as it is to anyone in America, but to New Yorkers, the Towers were a part of our everyday visual landscape.

I had a message from Jeff. As you know, he was to come visit and he was scheduled to be on a flight from JFK to SFO on Tuesday afternoon at 4:30. He was to go on from California to Singapore to Vietnam. We are grateful that he was not on a cross country plane at the time. We have cancelled everything we had planned for our two week holiday, and here I am at work instead. Jeff and I were both supremely disappointed about our trip.
I cancelled our plans to Hanoi, postponed my ticket, and made measures to change our two week plans. I wrote to Handspan, a tour agency that Jeff and I were planning on using, to tell them we will not be coming. They replied with this:

Dear Hani Hong,

We are very sorry about terrorist happened in NewYork and Washington.
It is horrible that I can not imagine. Everybody was shocked in Vietnam. We welcome you to Handspan at any time if you would like to come to Hanoi another time.
See ya another time.
With best regards
Linh Chi

I have been getting live CNBC and CNN feed here, and am getting thorough coverage. I was surprised that the Vietnamese community is totally aware. I received many calls from friends here who know that I call NY home, and who were concerned for my friends and family. I am so deeply deeply saddened by this. I never watch TV here, but of course, have been watching news since Tuesday. There is no normal programming here, as we only get cable, and only about 5 channels of which CNBC is one so there is constant coverage. I only watch every other day or so now. They repeat everything anyway.

I have to say that watching the news, and the way people are treating the rescue workers in NY, I think OFTEN of the AIDS Rides, and the way the crew treated us. It is the same sort of outpouring of appreciation for "heroes" and the sort of situation where total strangers bring out their best sides to help everyone. Again, it is because the entire nation, like AIDS riders on a smaller scale, are facing a common adversity and this is what human beings do when faced with such. And so, it seems that the only thing that will bring the world together is a newer more powerful enemy from a galaxy far far away.

It did not even occur to me to return home soon. I did, however, call the US consulate office here in HCMC and registered my name and my presence in the country. Security – expectedly – was tight. They even checked inside my cup of coffee. I should have done it when I first arrived but recent events made it even more pressing that I did so.

I do, however, feel safe here, and I am sure that I will be protected by my family should I become stranded (I will still have a job and be able to do many other things, though may perhaps postpone a trip to Angkor Wat for another time). Life very much goes on here, although my friends comment about how very sad I am and wish that they could help me in some other way. I think being home and holding friends and family and seeing them with my own eyes and seeing my New York skyline are what I need to continue to heal.

I saw a photo on the Washington Post web site last night that made me reel with pain. It was of a little seven-year-old black boy dressed in a yellow rain coat who grievously had his head in his arms, leaning against his mother's white casket, with his grandmother behind him, and there was such pain in that image. His mother was one of the rescue workers who came to the WTC to help those in need. I must stop looking at those kinds of pictures. I look at Souris' pictures of all the rescue workers, police department, and fire department in NY. It's really wonderful. NYC is truly a great city. I can't wait to return.

I've just realized that I've only got my Alaska newsletter here with me (which I've posted on the AIDS Ride blog) and the rest of my AIDS Ride letters are back home you'll have to wait till I return in the Spring to read them. In the meantime, the other blogs are ready for bathroom reading. Enjoy.

All my Blogs:
Life Is Grand, for my Annual New Year's letters (only 1999 and 2000 so far, but since I plan on living till I'm a hundred, you can be sure to see a few more in the future)
Home Sweet Home (doublehappiness.blogspot.com) for just a few logs I wrote in the States during my brief six week visit home this summer.
It's a Small World, my small world experiences (themayor.blogspot.com)
AIDS Rides, my AIDS Rides newsletters - from Philly DC to Alaska, the fundraising letters and the experience letters (moralcourage.blogspot.com).

Saigon.
The other day, while I was out, there was a little girl, about six, carrying a sleeping newborn around, and a plastic jug, begging for money. It is an incredibly pathetic sight, and worse, when I was told that many people often bear children to send them begging (children bring home more money than their working fathers). Even more heinous, people rent their babies out to beggars!!! And when children don't bring enough money home (or if they don't sell enough lottery tickets while their parents gamble with friends throughout the day), they come home to a beating. So what do you do? Well, feel a lot of pain inside, and then help out the churches and such shelters where you know your charitable donations will go to food and shelter rather than tobacco and alcohol. Oi. It's really disgusting the way it is here. I have trouble forgetting such vivid images.

Last night I went with Lan for a long (by Vietnamese standards) walk in town after work. First we headed to the Diamond Plaza department store which is a lot like Hecht Co. We then walked over by Di 10's cafe and went to a place called "Godfather Ice Cream" where we sat on the sidewalk, teeming with locals, and enjoyed some coconut ice cream in a coconut, topped off with lychees and what I am sure is cool whip. It was nice for me to do that - to get out and WALK and to break the routine of going to work, meeting up with the aunts, and going home. I wonder how it was that I would on occasion walk home from work in Soho across the Brooklyn Bridge to Carroll Gardens... about an 8K walk and very pleasant, after work. The best part was hanging out on the bridge and watching the sunset behind Lady Liberty, but timing it so that I'd hit home before dark. Just a few kms now is a lot more than I'm used to. I've gotta get back to New York and let my legs move move move. No biking, no walking, and I can't seem to convince any cyclo drivers to loan me their pedicabs for a day.

A week away and Jeff will be in Hanoi, as will I, and we will enjoy the splendors of Ha Long Bay (rent Indochine with Catherine Deneuve), Sapa Valley, and central Vietnam, and then head out to the beach of Mui Ne (Cape Ne) in Phan Thiet. We will try to scan & send photos, but most likely you'll have to wait till I get back on the 26th to do so. The blog won't be updated during that time (14th - 26th), but do check back afterwards.

I am still busy with work because of the two week vacation I will be taking (this is untimely of course, as I've just returned from a six week vacation). October and November to be sure will be jam packed, but after Christmas, I plan to be totally free of work, and will concentrate only on traveling and spending all of my hard earned cash. Not much left for New York, but if you've got job ideas (or if you know a publisher who wants a story about rediscovery and roots) then let me know, so I can continue with my retirement. I'm quite liking it.

Sai Gon, September 6, 2001
Printers are behind again... A full day lost today because there was NO ELECTRICITY in their district. Looks like my book will be delayed a day or so. I went to the printer's yesterday, and they wanted me to return to press in the evening. I told them I wasn't coming. They said, "you can't?" and I said, "no, I don't WANT to." It was pouring out and I spent my Saturday there, and was not planning on spending this evening, yesterday evening, or tomorrow evening there either.

Speaking of pouring. The rain came suddenly and it came in torrents. It seems that most homes in Vietnam are sheltered with corrugated metal sheets and so the decibel level rises with the clanging of the rain drops. And the upper levels of corrugated metal create a sort of waterfall to the ones below, each with their distinct clamor in which thin lines of water flow between the corrugation to the ground. Children find the heavy falls and shower beneath the cold rain. Others squirm together beneath a single poncho, trying to stay dry in vain, and everyone else moves about by bike or motorbike drenched in the six inches of water that have accumulated on the roads within a matter of minutes, all the while trying to avoid the backsplash from vehicles and buses.

This is life here for the locals, and they all say... "There are only two seasons in Vietnam - Rainy Season and Sunny Season." And they're right.

Sai Gon. September 3, 2001
Happy birthday Eva and Les!

Today is Vietnam’s Independence day, and much like the U.S., we have the day off from work and the country’s flag flies over every home. Unlike the U.S. however, hanging the flag over your home and business is mandated by law. Such is communist life.

I’ve got the day off from work (which makes up for my long day at the printer’s on Saturday), and will go over to Linh’s today for banh khot, which is a specialty of Vung Tau (a nearby peninsula). Di 9 and 10 have gone to France, Amsterdam, Belgium, and Italy for a month, and Thanh the driver has gone to his home for a week. I feel FREE.
Only two weeks till Jeff arrives, and I will be in good old American company.

Off for lunch now.
Hani

Sai Gon, September 2, 2001.
Two nights ago, Kiki called me to tell me that my beloved Grampa (Arthur Grey) Bone passed away in the morning EST. Though I did not get a chance to say goodbye to him, I was lucky enough to spend time with him when I was in Atlanta for several months last winter. I will undoubtedly always think of Grampa when I see a Waffle House, or when I'm having bacon, eggs, and grits for breakfast! I'm grateful to have heard from Ki in person, and not via mail, and though I have no one to share in with my sadness in Vietnam, I am happy to hear from those of you at home who knew A.G.

Our lives with Grampa and his family really go full circle with my nuclear family. Dad met A.G. and Edna (gramma) in 1957 while at Fort Bening and none of us would have ever guessed the impact our two families would have upon each other. Perhaps Souris would not have met Silvio during her stay with Mike & Lori in Santa Monica. Lobo would not work for Fred Durst and Kaly might not be in New York. I would not have had the joy of working with and loving Mica, which has since led me to my “retirement” (as I like to call my current living situation).

So, I have come to some deep thoughts about the impact people have on my life. And the point is, if you are reading this, know that you have impacted my life and that I know that you have contributed to it in a way that has made me as happy as I am right now.

Since my return to Vietnam, I have had extreme emotional reactions to nearly everything. I have a brand new attitude at work (which is to not work as much as I previously had) because my reason for being here is not to work, but to travel. And I spent most of the last six months working. I shall now spend most of the next few months traveling. I have a new attitude at home (which is to go in and out as I please, whether I’ve got the driver or not) because I cannot stand the lack of privacy or restrictions on my freedom while living with a relative.

I am searching, searching, searching, for what is new here. For the things that made me happy on my first trip here. The new discoveries about the old life. I need to explore and to venture into new territory. So, I am. I am going to go to lots of places, I am going to spend lots of time in the mountains, at the beach, in the forest, and among the Vietnamese.

I am fighting my desire to be back in New York City, which can be difficult, until I remember that I’m living the good life here. I haven’t washed a dish since I’ve been here, my laundry is laundered and pressed for me, my room is cleaned, my food is cooked, I have a chauffeur, I have unlimited access to ice cream, and I have more trips planned to more countries than I ever did when I lived in the City. No matter where I place myself, the grass is always greener where I stand.

PS. For my really rosy feel good fun descriptions of Vietnam, just click on February's archives.

SaiGon. August 30, 2001
Response from most of you leads me to believe that you might be somewhat disappointed in my new view of Vietnam. Fear not, it is still relatively rosy. Good life seems to follow me where ever I land, so I am not having such a terrible time of it.

Since I’ve been back, I’ve begun to make good use of taxis, relied less on Thanh and my aunt for transportation, and I’ve met more westerners which have helped me feel closer to home. It’s true, I haven’t had a bowl of white rice since I’ve returned. It took me 28 years and two trips to the homeland to figure out that I don’t like Vietnamese white rice!

I feel a great loss at being away from New York all this time, especially with Tokion’s Neo Graffiti 3 party, Palm Pictures’ opening party, and Lisa Kirt’s birthday all in the same weekend! No matter, I have made up for it, by going to Phan Thiet last weekend and seeing life in a different light for now.

In two weeks Jeff will be here and we’ll visit beautiful landmarks in Vietnam that I should have visited on my last trip. I’ve told the office that I will be GONE FOR GOOD as of Tet 2002. I have written for my application to be a bike tour guide in France and Italy for next summer. And I am really enjoying my life right now.

Sai Gon. August 22, 2001
Feel sorry for me. I am using a 21600 bps connection (it takes approximately five minutes for one hotmail page to load), and I have six mosquito bites, one on the ball of my big toe. Ouch! The power went out early this morning (so imagine the heat I had to bear in the house without AC) and am recovering from jet lag. I went to work. I was happy to see that everyone was well at the office and even happier to see that I should be able to pass my work on to them.

It’s okay to be back. I’m looking forward to Jeff’s visit in September and a trip to Australia in January. It’s fucking humid. It’s RAINY season so it’s raining all the time and when it’s not, you’re wet from the humidity alone. It’s disgusting. My room felt drenched last night and the AC wasn’t ready to cope. Everything in my boxes were wet from the humidity.

Purposefully dressed “like an American,” I got through the international arrival line without bribing the sober fellow at the counter, and then proceeded through customs as if I did not speak a word of English. I had to carry each 70-pound box onto the x-ray myself while the airport officials sat on their green uniformed asses. The guy at the x-ray tried to pick a bribe with me, but the guy who had my paperwork responded with “she doesn’t speak vietnamese” and X-ray man waved me off. No one helped me with my luggage since people who are picking you up are NOT ALLOWED into the airport and the officials are useless. So my 95 pound back-packed self (hey, I gained 7 pounds) was left to push 140 lbs. with one hand on a cart with a shaky left-bound caster and a carry-on roller in my other hand. Of course, 100 pounds were mostly food & chocolate for people here (and then I have received complaints about not bringing other things!). I was thrilled to see aunt 10 and really wanted to see aunt 9 today, but haven’t had a chance.

The visor I bought is great. It’s especially good for browsing my vindigo downloads so I can feel like I’m in NYC or DC again. How sad is that? I must stop writing as my feet are asleep from being curled underneath me to prevent further bug biting.

Later.
H.

Arlington, VA
Just returned from NY today.
I'll be returning to Vietnam on Monday, August 20, and will continue to write in my blog until I return to the States (in February).
Check back soon.
H.

New York, NY
Spent my whole day today with friend Jeff whom I met last year while training on the AIDS Ride. We went to see Buster Keaton in "Navigator" and I laughed so hard, I cried. We saw an additional three shorts at the Film Forum today during the double feature. Then I headed into my beloved Brooklyn, and after a walk in Park Slope, I went to meet Lisa for dinner in her hood. Tomorrow I go to the museum of Natural History, and perhaps to another with Antal, a nice Hungarian boy I met on the ride up from Washington the other day, on his very first trip to New York. Told him I'd show him around.
Then lunch plans, after lunch plans, pre-dinner plans, dinner plans, and into Wednesday with breakfast plans, lunch plans.... the cycle begins over again.
I have overbooked myself.
no matter.
life is short.

On Monday I return to Vietnam. As it was, I didn't want to return at all, but in the last few days, I've begun to rethink my feelings here, and though I'm not anxious or excited or even looking forward to returning, there are several reasons for me to do so. Namely, Australia, New Zealand, Thailand, Malaysia, Jeff's visit in September (for our tour of Vietnam from North to South), and of course, the Tet celebration. So I'll return for a short six months. Upon my true re-entry to the States in February, I'll surely be visiting New York, and quite possibly Santa Monica again. There is reason to go to Portland, Seattle, and other cities, and possibilities for living and biking in Italy and France. Hell, I'll improve my French, my Italian, my geography, my culture, and my legs (I've logged zero miles this year on bike vs. 1500 miles from last year!).

Frankly, I've no idea what I'll do when I return. It's a toss up - any suggestions? Takers? I'm interested in working with cool people who love life. Maybe I can write the uncensored version of life in Vietnam, or maybe I'll be a toy engineer, or maybe I'll just do the bike tour guide gig. Do I sound confused? Fear not, I'm not. I plan on doing all these things in my lifetime. Who says you have to have one measly boring job for life? Certainly not I.

Arlington VA.
I've been back to 2 chefs for steak & cheese sandwiches, had bbq, and plenty of other American food recently. I spent ten beautiful days in Santa Monica, went to the Getty Museum, and played with the kids. Saturday I spent at the National Gallery of Art in D.C. where there is an excellent Jasper Johns exhibit as well as a collection from Nationalgalerie Berlin (including some beautiful work by Adolf Menzel).

Arlington is hot and humid, much like Vietnam, and I suppose New York will be the same. I go to NY later this weekend through the 15th and return to Vietnam on August 20. Much to do, and little time to do it.
h.

Arlington VA.
I've been back on U.S. soil for about 12 days, and IT FEELS GREAT. I've gone to 2 Chefs twice, had mexican food a half a dozen times, cuban food, and italian food. Went to NYC last week for a week and it was fabulous, as NY is in the summertime. The weather was perfect and sunny, and I went to see the Origami Architecture exhibit at the Arts & Crafts museum. Beautiful paper engineering (my next job, maybe).

Tomorrow (well, later today, as it is now about 2:30 am), I go to sunny California - Santa Monica - to spend 10 glorious days by the beach with Mica and Ari and Lori (and a Vietnamese wedding with lots of family too). Will report more some other day. Returning from CA on July 31.
h.

Sai Gon, July 7, 2001
Hi, I’m signing out. Tomorrow afternoon I take off for Singapore and arrive in Dulles at 10:40 Monday morning after stopping in Narita (Tokyo) and 30 hours of travel.

Spent some time with grammy today and recorded her talking for my mom and uncle. Gotta go pack.
h
By the way, when I'm in the states, I'll try to keep a log of life after 'nam if I have the time. www.doublehappiness.blogspot.com

Monday, July 2, 2001
Sai Gon.
Small World Experience: Eva Bullington, a great old friend from seventh grade in Virginia is very close with Trinh & Joe Murphy whom I met here in Vietnam just a couple of weeks ago. I’ll have to post this one up on my Mayor Blog. Just two degrees of separation.

Okay. My physical being will be in the following states on the following days:
Arrive in DC July 9 (I will be VERY tired)
July 9-12 in Arlington
July 13-16 NYC
July 17-20 Arlington
July 21-31 LA/Santa Monica
Tentative: Aug 1-7 Arlington
Tentative: Aug 8-14 NYC
Aug 15 – return to Vietnam

Plans? I don’t know how much traveling I’ll plan when I’m in VA, but if you can make it to No. VA, it would help reduce my travel time.

As for biking season, is ANYONE recording the CNBC/OLN (Outdoor Life Network)/Nike specials on behind-the-scenes US Postal Service guys? There’s a series of 9 pre-tour shows. If you have it, save your copy! I can’t get that here. The first 5 shows have already aired. (Check out RoadtoParis.com for details)
Here’s the schedule:
date eastern pacific
6.23 3pm 12pm
6.28 10pm 7pm
6.29 1am 10pm (on 6.28)
6.29 1pm 10am
7.1 4pm 1pm
7.3 2pm 11am
7.6 1am 10pm (on 7.5)
7.6 2pm 11am
7.8 2pm 11am
7.12 1pm 10am
And can someone please record Stage 1 & 2 of the tour de France (July 8 & 9) as I’ll be en route home. ESPN has the only coverage, derisory as it is, in the U.S.

Speaking of biking, is anyone interested in a 2 week bike tour of Vietnam? If you are, let me know. I’m going to try to organize a trip for friends from SaiGon to Hue (and probably fly from Hue to Ha Noi & Sapa). I’ll find the hotels & restaurants, support vehicles and other related issues, but if you have any experience or advice, send it my way. I do not plan on signing up with an existing tour, as they are outrageously priced for non-Vietnamese travelers.

Sai Gon, June 27, 2001
Over the weekend, I went to Phan Thiet with Di 9 & 10 and stayed at Novotel, part of the French Accor hotel group. As the weather was temperamental, we spent most of our time sleeping, eating, and watching HBO. The rest of our time was spent swinging in the hammocks hung between palm trees, playing foozball, and wandering around the hotel.

Saturday night we had a seafood buffet all-you-can-eat dinner. I had a plate of a half dozen clams, a half dozen mussels, a crab, 5 king prawns, and fresh fish all grilled over charcoal, and then followed with a plate of 5 different salads, bread and pate, bread and brie, bread and Roquefort, a dozen steamed shrimp, a slice of quiche, and thai noodles. Then I had 2 peach custard tarts, a kiwi custard tart, a scoop of coffee ice cream, a slice of apple honey crisp, watermelon, dragon fruit, and flan for dessert. It was all so good…

The only time we spent away from the hotel was when we went out to eat, and when we went to visit Ong 10 (my grandfather’s cousin) who gave me a bag full of star fruit that he picked from his tree in the back yard. Ong 10 lives across the street from my mom’s old house which is now an Exxon gas station. It's teeny; I don't know if her whole family lived there or if it was her home before everyone was born. We also went to visit Chu Ngoc at the Saigon Mui Ne resort where we lunched with him before returning back to Sai Gon.

Less than 2 weeks until I return home, and I’m counting the days until I set foot back in good ol’ U.S. of A. I miss NYC like crazy, I miss walking and I miss biking. I miss the Brooklyn Bridge. I miss driving and I miss steak. I miss reading English signs and hearing English spoken. I miss not having to bargain when I shop. I’ll be back in time to watch the Tour de France on ESPN (although ESPN in Vietnam will have more coverage on cycling than the measly 30 minutes per day we get in the U.S.). And I’ll get to go to California just in time for a – well, a Vietnamese wedding.

No blogs for a coupla days. Tomorrow I go to Phan Thiet with Di 9 & 10 for 3 days for some R&R. We’re not staying at Saigon Mui Ne Resort this time (Chu Ngoc’s hotel) since Di 10 has a voucher to stay at another place for free (someplace where she plays golf).

Went to print with issue 3 of the guidebook today.
Check films on Tuesday when I get back.

Otherwise, nothing new. H.

Sai Gon, July 21, 2001
I had a dream two days ago where I was giving instructions to someone else over the phone IN VIETNAMESE. When I woke up, I was really quite amused with myself, as much as I would be I suppose, if I ever find myself thinking in Vietnamese (this has happened with French before, but never Vietnamese). I suppose dreaming in another language is a sign that it’s nearly time to go home.

Today is the middle of the month of the lunar calendar (am lich). It’s called Ram, and it’s of course, a vegetarian day for the Vietnamese, as is the first day of the lunar month. The 2nd and 16th of the month, however, are the days the vietnamese commemorate and pray for, well, everything. The verb is to “cun” and you cun your car, your house, your business, and anything else that needs protection or prosperity. Tomorrow we’ll have fruit (usually mangoes, lychees, longans, and dragon fruit) to snack on at work, since the process includes offering fruit to the Gods and burning incense at miniature shrines, which will be found in nearly every commercial and retail outlet, hotels, restaurants, and any other place you can imagine. The one at work I’ve never seen, though I’ve sensed traces of incense on my way out for lunch before.

Miniature shrines are most often produced of wood that is then most often painted red, and most often highlighted with gold stamping, and is generally rather tacky. Sometimes they include flashing holiday lights, fake candles with fake flame shaped bulbs and long electrical wires (who ever thought this was an improvement on the original?), a plastic Buddha with a lightbulb inside his tummy, or – so 80’s – flashing fiber optic threads in multiple colors. You have to buy a miniature tea set with your shrine (how else are you going to offer tea to your Buddhas?), and usually a small cup or bowl to hold the uncooked rice in which you’ll stick the incense sticks. If you’re going to cun your car, then all you have to do is place a plate of fruit on the hood, and stick a few incense sticks in whatever cracks you can find in the front grill, and then make a few offerings to the Gods and let the incense burn down. This will prevent you from having a car accident. Even boat homes, which line the Sai Gon River (and most other rivers of Vietnam) have miniature shrines. Boat homes are a whole other image I can write about some other time.

Vietnamese houses also have shrines that range from miniature to entire rooms and some can really be quite elegant. All homes have proper shrines for commemorating your late parents and other ancestors – this is no matter your religion, it is a vietnamese rather than a Buddhist custom. The Vietnamese believe that your parents are constantly watching over you, even in their death. We constantly offer my grandfather fruit, but sometimes we offer him some soup and tea in case he tires of the fruit. Now that I’m recalling this, I had mien ga tonight for dinner – chicken noodle soup – which was one of my grandfather’s favorites and I (for shame) forgot to offer some to him. No matter, my grandad had plenty of extra weight on him, and as perhaps the most self-actualized person I’ve ever known, he wouldn’t mind that I forgot, always being ever so forgiving.

Only 16 days until I leave SaiGon. I arrive in DC on July 9, tired and fattened (I've gained at least 3 kg which makes me over 90lbs), and will shortly thereafter be going up to NY for a weekend. Hoping to see much while home though I will be spending about a week and a half in California if I can get my ticket confirmed and bought soon. Imagine, I’ll be taking a ten day vacation to California from my five week vacation to the U.S. from my two year vacation from New York. I like this life. And after this vacation, I think I'll go vacation in Italy or Greece, though I've never been to either. There is much to look forward to, beginning with steak in the western world (forgive me, Buddha).

Sai Gon. June 16, 2001
I forgot about the conversation – or rather, the interrogation – I had in Buon Me Thuot with a group of young hotel clerks and waitresses. On our second evening after dinner, I happened to step just far enough away from my table to be considered standing alone, when a young waitress accosted me and asked, “Where are you from?”
“The States,” I replied.
Suddenly, there were three waitresses around me.
“What’s it like there?” “Is it true that American men don’t really mind if a girl isn’t a virgin?” “What state do you live in?” “You don’t live with your family? Don’t you miss your mother?” “I hear that you only have to be married for a year before you can get a divorce if you want citizenship.” “How old are you?” “Oh, my; hey Trang, she’s so youthful! Guess how old she is?” “Are you mixed? Your skin is so white! Your eyes are so round!”
Another waitress and the hotel clerk joined in or animated conversation.
“We knew you were a nice person when we saw you having dinner yesterday. We said to ourselves, ‘oh, she’s sweet.’” “What’s your name?” “Oh, that’s a nice name. Where did you get it? Do you know the story of the girl named Han Ni? Your name is much prettier.” “I’m going to name my kid ‘Hani’.” “Do you have a brother?” “Can you help us meet your friends?” “You only have one brother! Can you find four more available men? Don’t you have friends who want to marry asians?” “I heard that life is really easy in the States.” “Is it true that women are equal to men in the States?”

Their want for knowledge of life in the States was insatiable, and so it went for about 10 minutes before I was separated from them by excusing myself to go out for dessert with my friends who stood nearby waiting for me. And that is what people have in their heads about life in the States.

When I first arrived in Vietnam, I met an English fellow named Dave at an internet cafe (before I had access at home & work). We often ran into each other at my aunt’s cafe, where Dave once said to me, “I know you can’t be Vietnamese since you haven’t tried to marry me yet.” I was amused. It was nice running into Dave since he was one of few people with whom I conversed in English. He’s back in England now, and I’m not sure what he’s up to.

Time to go.

June 14, 2001.
Until I've got the energy and time to indite another blog, you'll have to to just be satisfied with a little hello, I'm fine, slightly stuffy nose, 2 scoops of ice cream in my stomach, (went to dinner with some girlfriends tonight) and counting down the days till I get a 2 Chefs steak & cheese sandwich.

And the fact that I'm amazed; I've been recently receiving responses from people who say "where have you been? What have you been doing?" when all I've been doing is keeping a blog since February...

Sai Gon. June 13, 2001

Hi!
:)

there is something amusing I've been wanting to write, but everytime I come close to a keyboard, I forget.
Must make notes. Stuffy nose, but clear headed today. Went to work as usual.

Souris hasn't had a chance to post pictures yet (sorry) but if you really want to see some soon, ask me and I'll forward them to you.
h.

Sai Gon, June 12, 2001
The WEDDING. I forgot to tell you about the WEDDING. On Saturday night I went to a true Vietnamese wedding (well, okay, the reception) of the forty-something son of my Di 9's sister-in-law, whom I've never met. I missed the morning session where the son and his parading family had to go collect the bride and her parading family (like we did with my uncle in February), but made it to dinner. Vietnamese weddings are extraordinarily noisy. There were tables of beer-drinking men behind us who would grab their brews, count to 3, and yell "vo!" which means "in!" and they'd all clink mugs, take a swig, and sit back down. They'd do it about every 7 or 8 minutes. On stage, there was great d飯r of red everything, balloons that popped confetti when the newly married couple walked in, silly string, and an emcee on the mic. The house singers sung and later passed their mics on to guests who wanted their turn at karaoke. Singers were rewarded with long-stemmed roses that were purchased (I think) by spectators from the girls in ao dais carrying them in baskets, the way you see flower peddlers in Olde Towne Alexandria in romantic restaurants.

In the meantime, while we were served our multiple course meal, as all respectable weddings of the Vietnamese must be (my mother once paled at the suggestion that buffet weddings were not only practised, but perfectly acceptable for Americans, though she's seen enough now to know that there isn't anything wrong about them), the bride and groom swept from table to table to table being photographed with all their guests. Of course, the bride changed into three different wedding gowns in this hour long process. The Vietnamese say "well, you're only married once. You might as well wear as many as you can."

No cake was cut (as the cake is fake, and only for show), and as soon as the dessert (lychees) was served, tables cleared as the majority of guests went home. The entire fantastic affair lasted until 9:00 (It was scheduled to begin at 6:00, but since we are on Vietnamese time, we did not arrive until 7:30). And that was it. A Vietnamese wedding.

Sai Gon, June 11, 2001

I haven’t had a chance to expand on my trip to Buon Me Thuot, and yet, much has happened since then. I’ve been feeling under the weather ever since the trip, and it caught up to me by the end of the week. Friday night I went to bed (after reading some Harry Potter, Book IV), and woke up about 14 hours later at 2 in the afternoon on Saturday. Talk about tired! I then spent the rest of the day working on menus for Di 10’s restaurants, and despite my cold, rode on a motorbike out to the city in the middle of a rainstorm in the evening. I met up with Thanh (who had a CAR) at Dong Du Cafe and showed him how to play Gin Rummy, one of the only card games I know (and I can’t even remember all the rules really), and we played till we had to pick up Di 10 at a wedding she was attending.

Sunday morning I went with Di 10, her friend Mr. Hoang, and Trinh Murphy. Trinh is a distant relation with Di 10, has lived in Paris and NY, and is settled in Williamsburg, VA with her husband Joe, a U.S. Diplomat. They are wonderful companions and it was such a relief to have a normal conversation with some Americans over the last week. I so enjoyed their company. Anyway, as Joe was not feeling well, he did not join us. The rest of us went to visit a home beyond the city that is taken care of by a man we call Thai (meaning “teacher”).

Thai’s home is built from scraps that he collects, and in it lives elderly women, and young children, most of whom are physically disabled, mentally retarded, or otherwise handicapped. Some of the children go to school. All are far below normal height and weight for their ages. All are loved and respected in this humble home.

There are about a dozen women in their 70s and 80s, and around 20 children. Older children care for younger children. Abler women feed the more disabled, abler children feed the more disabled. All are taught to be so very polite and kind to strangers. I took pictures, which I’d like to share when I get them from Trinh. If you could see what I saw, I don’t think you could ever go back to wasting the way we waste, and you would have total appreciation for what you have. It is incomprehensible to waste food, toys and clothes the way we do in the States. I’m guessing, but about ten US dollars could feed this family of over 30 for a week, $30 could send one of the children to school for a year. It's so easy not to think about this kind of poverty (even while in Vietnam!) when we're not facing it with our own eyes.

These kids sleep on the cement floors, black ants, bugs and mosquitoes biting them incessantly. Scrap food, of which ingredients are sometimes picked up from the piles of discarded and dirty legumes in the Sai Gon markets, cooked into hot meals and responsibility to each other are the core of their existence. One child was left mentally retarded from the ants that had attacked him when he was found abandoned and tied to a tree. The pain they have gone through is inconceivable yet they are able to find such joy in amusement from an object as simple as a rubber band.

I have to stop writing…
Mom, dad, my cold is wearing off. I’m okay and will be glad to be home in July.
H.

From two days ago-
Sai Gon, June 5, 2001
I’m back from Buon Me Thuot, two 8 hour bus rides and 8 mediocre meals later. It is a curse having been born to a good cook, because it is nearly impossible to eat on the road. The trip was a good and true VIETNAMESE experience. I went with Linh, her friend Truc, their professor (Truc’s father), his wife, and 45 other Vietnamese dentists, and dental professors.

I am so incredibly American.

The fifty of us loaded up the bus by 6 a.m. on Friday morning, got on the road for a breakfast nearby, and continued on the road. The tour guide, Tam, began with gifts for the children on board (there were 3) as it was International Children’s Day (which is celebrated throughout Vietnam in a variety of charitable events, entertainment, crafts, fairs, and festivals). Tam then followed up with a lot of talking that I didn’t completely understand, and then sang a song. He got off the microphone and I thought “okay, rest and peace.” But no, a play on video appears on the monitor and the box speakers, spread along the bus, are blaring the comedians’ voices. I put my MD headphones on and try to drown out the Vietnamese I can't understand with Bono singing in my ears.

A few hours later, we pull over at a restaurant that has a fake “SaigonTourist” sticker on its door. SaigonTourist is the largest tour operator in Vietnam, formerly a monopoly, and very reputable. I brought along a chicken sandwich that I ate instead of the eel that was served and met some of the other people on our trip. A few hours onward, we stopped at our first site, Dryspar or something (I can’t remember). A waterfall site. It’s pretty, but not remarkable. What was remarkable was the fellow standing at the top of the falls throwing out his fishing net and catching the downstream fish. Roughly an hour later, we climbed aboard and went to a second spot where there were other falls, beautiful landscaping, natural boulders, and tall treehouses that were easy to climb but difficult to descend.

From there, we went back to the hotel, and I will continue with Saturday’s events (the elephant ride) later as I’m too tired to go on right now. H.

Captions to additional pictures on Souris' site:
A full doc moc boat, me fooling around (see what strength fish sauce can give you?) in the woods (waterfalls in back complete with rainbow), another picture of Linh and I on Ban, and a waterfall we visited near Buon Me Thuot (not as great as Great Falls, I have to say).

The other four are described below

Sai Gon, June 7, 2001
Only about a month away from being home, Home!

Buon Me Thuot was a good trip for me to take. I spent a weekend with 50 vietnamese and have much to say about it, but left the part I wrote about it at the house (and I’m in the office).

Go to Souris’ site, Saigon Soldier, for pictures of my trip. I rode an elephant named Ban, who is 40 years old. She’s been in captivity since she was 2, once bore a baby that did not survive long, and she hauls logs when she’s not carrying people around. There’s also a picture of Linh and I feeding Ban with sugar cane sticks. The natives are M’nong and H’mong; some of the few minority groups here in Vietnam. They live in these great long houses where they invited us in and performed some traditional songs & danced for us. Typical of the area, these long houses have walls made of woven palm, and stand on logs and bamboo stilts. They’re generally one large room with cool hardwood floors, straw mats, and hold entire families. Pigs, chickens, dogs, and other animals live under and around the homes.

On Souris’ site, you’ll see my pictures riding in a doc moc, a boat made from a single log. It’s similar in width and length of rowing shell for 8 (plus cox). I sat in stroke.

Have again lost my train of thought as I’ve just been interrupted by a phone call and fear that Thanh might be by any minute to pick me up (then I won’t be able to send you these pictures).
So, till tomorrow.
H.

Sai Gon. June 6, 2001
Back from Buon Me Thout. Started a blog on the computer at home, but will just briefly say, “I rode an elephant!”
And that I’ll send pictures in the next couple of days.
h.