Sai Gon, June 27, 2001
Over the weekend, I went to Phan Thiet with Di 9 & 10 and stayed at Novotel, part of the French Accor hotel group. As the weather was temperamental, we spent most of our time sleeping, eating, and watching HBO. The rest of our time was spent swinging in the hammocks hung between palm trees, playing foozball, and wandering around the hotel.
Saturday night we had a seafood buffet all-you-can-eat dinner. I had a plate of a half dozen clams, a half dozen mussels, a crab, 5 king prawns, and fresh fish all grilled over charcoal, and then followed with a plate of 5 different salads, bread and pate, bread and brie, bread and Roquefort, a dozen steamed shrimp, a slice of quiche, and thai noodles. Then I had 2 peach custard tarts, a kiwi custard tart, a scoop of coffee ice cream, a slice of apple honey crisp, watermelon, dragon fruit, and flan for dessert. It was all so good…
The only time we spent away from the hotel was when we went out to eat, and when we went to visit Ong 10 (my grandfather’s cousin) who gave me a bag full of star fruit that he picked from his tree in the back yard. Ong 10 lives across the street from my mom’s old house which is now an Exxon gas station. It's teeny; I don't know if her whole family lived there or if it was her home before everyone was born. We also went to visit Chu Ngoc at the Saigon Mui Ne resort where we lunched with him before returning back to Sai Gon.
Less than 2 weeks until I return home, and I’m counting the days until I set foot back in good ol’ U.S. of A. I miss NYC like crazy, I miss walking and I miss biking. I miss the Brooklyn Bridge. I miss driving and I miss steak. I miss reading English signs and hearing English spoken. I miss not having to bargain when I shop. I’ll be back in time to watch the Tour de France on ESPN (although ESPN in Vietnam will have more coverage on cycling than the measly 30 minutes per day we get in the U.S.). And I’ll get to go to California just in time for a – well, a Vietnamese wedding.
June 27, 2001
June 22, 2001
No blogs for a coupla days. Tomorrow I go to Phan Thiet with Di 9 & 10 for 3 days for some R&R. We’re not staying at Saigon Mui Ne Resort this time (Chu Ngoc’s hotel) since Di 10 has a voucher to stay at another place for free (someplace where she plays golf).
Went to print with issue 3 of the guidebook today.
Check films on Tuesday when I get back.
Otherwise, nothing new. H.
Went to print with issue 3 of the guidebook today.
Check films on Tuesday when I get back.
Otherwise, nothing new. H.
June 21, 2001
Sai Gon, July 21, 2001
I had a dream two days ago where I was giving instructions to someone else over the phone IN VIETNAMESE. When I woke up, I was really quite amused with myself, as much as I would be I suppose, if I ever find myself thinking in Vietnamese (this has happened with French before, but never Vietnamese). I suppose dreaming in another language is a sign that it’s nearly time to go home.
Today is the middle of the month of the lunar calendar (am lich). It’s called Ram, and it’s of course, a vegetarian day for the Vietnamese, as is the first day of the lunar month. The 2nd and 16th of the month, however, are the days the vietnamese commemorate and pray for, well, everything. The verb is to “cun” and you cun your car, your house, your business, and anything else that needs protection or prosperity. Tomorrow we’ll have fruit (usually mangoes, lychees, longans, and dragon fruit) to snack on at work, since the process includes offering fruit to the Gods and burning incense at miniature shrines, which will be found in nearly every commercial and retail outlet, hotels, restaurants, and any other place you can imagine. The one at work I’ve never seen, though I’ve sensed traces of incense on my way out for lunch before.
Miniature shrines are most often produced of wood that is then most often painted red, and most often highlighted with gold stamping, and is generally rather tacky. Sometimes they include flashing holiday lights, fake candles with fake flame shaped bulbs and long electrical wires (who ever thought this was an improvement on the original?), a plastic Buddha with a lightbulb inside his tummy, or – so 80’s – flashing fiber optic threads in multiple colors. You have to buy a miniature tea set with your shrine (how else are you going to offer tea to your Buddhas?), and usually a small cup or bowl to hold the uncooked rice in which you’ll stick the incense sticks. If you’re going to cun your car, then all you have to do is place a plate of fruit on the hood, and stick a few incense sticks in whatever cracks you can find in the front grill, and then make a few offerings to the Gods and let the incense burn down. This will prevent you from having a car accident. Even boat homes, which line the Sai Gon River (and most other rivers of Vietnam) have miniature shrines. Boat homes are a whole other image I can write about some other time.
Vietnamese houses also have shrines that range from miniature to entire rooms and some can really be quite elegant. All homes have proper shrines for commemorating your late parents and other ancestors – this is no matter your religion, it is a vietnamese rather than a Buddhist custom. The Vietnamese believe that your parents are constantly watching over you, even in their death. We constantly offer my grandfather fruit, but sometimes we offer him some soup and tea in case he tires of the fruit. Now that I’m recalling this, I had mien ga tonight for dinner – chicken noodle soup – which was one of my grandfather’s favorites and I (for shame) forgot to offer some to him. No matter, my grandad had plenty of extra weight on him, and as perhaps the most self-actualized person I’ve ever known, he wouldn’t mind that I forgot, always being ever so forgiving.
Only 16 days until I leave SaiGon. I arrive in DC on July 9, tired and fattened (I've gained at least 3 kg which makes me over 90lbs), and will shortly thereafter be going up to NY for a weekend. Hoping to see much while home though I will be spending about a week and a half in California if I can get my ticket confirmed and bought soon. Imagine, I’ll be taking a ten day vacation to California from my five week vacation to the U.S. from my two year vacation from New York. I like this life. And after this vacation, I think I'll go vacation in Italy or Greece, though I've never been to either. There is much to look forward to, beginning with steak in the western world (forgive me, Buddha).
I had a dream two days ago where I was giving instructions to someone else over the phone IN VIETNAMESE. When I woke up, I was really quite amused with myself, as much as I would be I suppose, if I ever find myself thinking in Vietnamese (this has happened with French before, but never Vietnamese). I suppose dreaming in another language is a sign that it’s nearly time to go home.
Today is the middle of the month of the lunar calendar (am lich). It’s called Ram, and it’s of course, a vegetarian day for the Vietnamese, as is the first day of the lunar month. The 2nd and 16th of the month, however, are the days the vietnamese commemorate and pray for, well, everything. The verb is to “cun” and you cun your car, your house, your business, and anything else that needs protection or prosperity. Tomorrow we’ll have fruit (usually mangoes, lychees, longans, and dragon fruit) to snack on at work, since the process includes offering fruit to the Gods and burning incense at miniature shrines, which will be found in nearly every commercial and retail outlet, hotels, restaurants, and any other place you can imagine. The one at work I’ve never seen, though I’ve sensed traces of incense on my way out for lunch before.
Miniature shrines are most often produced of wood that is then most often painted red, and most often highlighted with gold stamping, and is generally rather tacky. Sometimes they include flashing holiday lights, fake candles with fake flame shaped bulbs and long electrical wires (who ever thought this was an improvement on the original?), a plastic Buddha with a lightbulb inside his tummy, or – so 80’s – flashing fiber optic threads in multiple colors. You have to buy a miniature tea set with your shrine (how else are you going to offer tea to your Buddhas?), and usually a small cup or bowl to hold the uncooked rice in which you’ll stick the incense sticks. If you’re going to cun your car, then all you have to do is place a plate of fruit on the hood, and stick a few incense sticks in whatever cracks you can find in the front grill, and then make a few offerings to the Gods and let the incense burn down. This will prevent you from having a car accident. Even boat homes, which line the Sai Gon River (and most other rivers of Vietnam) have miniature shrines. Boat homes are a whole other image I can write about some other time.
Vietnamese houses also have shrines that range from miniature to entire rooms and some can really be quite elegant. All homes have proper shrines for commemorating your late parents and other ancestors – this is no matter your religion, it is a vietnamese rather than a Buddhist custom. The Vietnamese believe that your parents are constantly watching over you, even in their death. We constantly offer my grandfather fruit, but sometimes we offer him some soup and tea in case he tires of the fruit. Now that I’m recalling this, I had mien ga tonight for dinner – chicken noodle soup – which was one of my grandfather’s favorites and I (for shame) forgot to offer some to him. No matter, my grandad had plenty of extra weight on him, and as perhaps the most self-actualized person I’ve ever known, he wouldn’t mind that I forgot, always being ever so forgiving.
Only 16 days until I leave SaiGon. I arrive in DC on July 9, tired and fattened (I've gained at least 3 kg which makes me over 90lbs), and will shortly thereafter be going up to NY for a weekend. Hoping to see much while home though I will be spending about a week and a half in California if I can get my ticket confirmed and bought soon. Imagine, I’ll be taking a ten day vacation to California from my five week vacation to the U.S. from my two year vacation from New York. I like this life. And after this vacation, I think I'll go vacation in Italy or Greece, though I've never been to either. There is much to look forward to, beginning with steak in the western world (forgive me, Buddha).
June 17, 2001
Sai Gon. June 16, 2001
I forgot about the conversation – or rather, the interrogation – I had in Buon Me Thuot with a group of young hotel clerks and waitresses. On our second evening after dinner, I happened to step just far enough away from my table to be considered standing alone, when a young waitress accosted me and asked, “Where are you from?”
“The States,” I replied.
Suddenly, there were three waitresses around me.
“What’s it like there?” “Is it true that American men don’t really mind if a girl isn’t a virgin?” “What state do you live in?” “You don’t live with your family? Don’t you miss your mother?” “I hear that you only have to be married for a year before you can get a divorce if you want citizenship.” “How old are you?” “Oh, my; hey Trang, she’s so youthful! Guess how old she is?” “Are you mixed? Your skin is so white! Your eyes are so round!”
Another waitress and the hotel clerk joined in or animated conversation.
“We knew you were a nice person when we saw you having dinner yesterday. We said to ourselves, ‘oh, she’s sweet.’” “What’s your name?” “Oh, that’s a nice name. Where did you get it? Do you know the story of the girl named Han Ni? Your name is much prettier.” “I’m going to name my kid ‘Hani’.” “Do you have a brother?” “Can you help us meet your friends?” “You only have one brother! Can you find four more available men? Don’t you have friends who want to marry asians?” “I heard that life is really easy in the States.” “Is it true that women are equal to men in the States?”
Their want for knowledge of life in the States was insatiable, and so it went for about 10 minutes before I was separated from them by excusing myself to go out for dessert with my friends who stood nearby waiting for me. And that is what people have in their heads about life in the States.
When I first arrived in Vietnam, I met an English fellow named Dave at an internet cafe (before I had access at home & work). We often ran into each other at my aunt’s cafe, where Dave once said to me, “I know you can’t be Vietnamese since you haven’t tried to marry me yet.” I was amused. It was nice running into Dave since he was one of few people with whom I conversed in English. He’s back in England now, and I’m not sure what he’s up to.
Time to go.
I forgot about the conversation – or rather, the interrogation – I had in Buon Me Thuot with a group of young hotel clerks and waitresses. On our second evening after dinner, I happened to step just far enough away from my table to be considered standing alone, when a young waitress accosted me and asked, “Where are you from?”
“The States,” I replied.
Suddenly, there were three waitresses around me.
“What’s it like there?” “Is it true that American men don’t really mind if a girl isn’t a virgin?” “What state do you live in?” “You don’t live with your family? Don’t you miss your mother?” “I hear that you only have to be married for a year before you can get a divorce if you want citizenship.” “How old are you?” “Oh, my; hey Trang, she’s so youthful! Guess how old she is?” “Are you mixed? Your skin is so white! Your eyes are so round!”
Another waitress and the hotel clerk joined in or animated conversation.
“We knew you were a nice person when we saw you having dinner yesterday. We said to ourselves, ‘oh, she’s sweet.’” “What’s your name?” “Oh, that’s a nice name. Where did you get it? Do you know the story of the girl named Han Ni? Your name is much prettier.” “I’m going to name my kid ‘Hani’.” “Do you have a brother?” “Can you help us meet your friends?” “You only have one brother! Can you find four more available men? Don’t you have friends who want to marry asians?” “I heard that life is really easy in the States.” “Is it true that women are equal to men in the States?”
Their want for knowledge of life in the States was insatiable, and so it went for about 10 minutes before I was separated from them by excusing myself to go out for dessert with my friends who stood nearby waiting for me. And that is what people have in their heads about life in the States.
When I first arrived in Vietnam, I met an English fellow named Dave at an internet cafe (before I had access at home & work). We often ran into each other at my aunt’s cafe, where Dave once said to me, “I know you can’t be Vietnamese since you haven’t tried to marry me yet.” I was amused. It was nice running into Dave since he was one of few people with whom I conversed in English. He’s back in England now, and I’m not sure what he’s up to.
Time to go.
June 14, 2001.
Until I've got the energy and time to indite another blog, you'll have to to just be satisfied with a little hello, I'm fine, slightly stuffy nose, 2 scoops of ice cream in my stomach, (went to dinner with some girlfriends tonight) and counting down the days till I get a 2 Chefs steak & cheese sandwich.
And the fact that I'm amazed; I've been recently receiving responses from people who say "where have you been? What have you been doing?" when all I've been doing is keeping a blog since February...
Until I've got the energy and time to indite another blog, you'll have to to just be satisfied with a little hello, I'm fine, slightly stuffy nose, 2 scoops of ice cream in my stomach, (went to dinner with some girlfriends tonight) and counting down the days till I get a 2 Chefs steak & cheese sandwich.
And the fact that I'm amazed; I've been recently receiving responses from people who say "where have you been? What have you been doing?" when all I've been doing is keeping a blog since February...
June 13, 2001
June 12, 2001
there is something amusing I've been wanting to write, but everytime I come close to a keyboard, I forget.
Must make notes. Stuffy nose, but clear headed today. Went to work as usual.
Souris hasn't had a chance to post pictures yet (sorry) but if you really want to see some soon, ask me and I'll forward them to you.
h.
Must make notes. Stuffy nose, but clear headed today. Went to work as usual.
Souris hasn't had a chance to post pictures yet (sorry) but if you really want to see some soon, ask me and I'll forward them to you.
h.
Sai Gon, June 12, 2001
The WEDDING. I forgot to tell you about the WEDDING. On Saturday night I went to a true Vietnamese wedding (well, okay, the reception) of the forty-something son of my Di 9's sister-in-law, whom I've never met. I missed the morning session where the son and his parading family had to go collect the bride and her parading family (like we did with my uncle in February), but made it to dinner. Vietnamese weddings are extraordinarily noisy. There were tables of beer-drinking men behind us who would grab their brews, count to 3, and yell "vo!" which means "in!" and they'd all clink mugs, take a swig, and sit back down. They'd do it about every 7 or 8 minutes. On stage, there was great d飯r of red everything, balloons that popped confetti when the newly married couple walked in, silly string, and an emcee on the mic. The house singers sung and later passed their mics on to guests who wanted their turn at karaoke. Singers were rewarded with long-stemmed roses that were purchased (I think) by spectators from the girls in ao dais carrying them in baskets, the way you see flower peddlers in Olde Towne Alexandria in romantic restaurants.
In the meantime, while we were served our multiple course meal, as all respectable weddings of the Vietnamese must be (my mother once paled at the suggestion that buffet weddings were not only practised, but perfectly acceptable for Americans, though she's seen enough now to know that there isn't anything wrong about them), the bride and groom swept from table to table to table being photographed with all their guests. Of course, the bride changed into three different wedding gowns in this hour long process. The Vietnamese say "well, you're only married once. You might as well wear as many as you can."
No cake was cut (as the cake is fake, and only for show), and as soon as the dessert (lychees) was served, tables cleared as the majority of guests went home. The entire fantastic affair lasted until 9:00 (It was scheduled to begin at 6:00, but since we are on Vietnamese time, we did not arrive until 7:30). And that was it. A Vietnamese wedding.
The WEDDING. I forgot to tell you about the WEDDING. On Saturday night I went to a true Vietnamese wedding (well, okay, the reception) of the forty-something son of my Di 9's sister-in-law, whom I've never met. I missed the morning session where the son and his parading family had to go collect the bride and her parading family (like we did with my uncle in February), but made it to dinner. Vietnamese weddings are extraordinarily noisy. There were tables of beer-drinking men behind us who would grab their brews, count to 3, and yell "vo!" which means "in!" and they'd all clink mugs, take a swig, and sit back down. They'd do it about every 7 or 8 minutes. On stage, there was great d飯r of red everything, balloons that popped confetti when the newly married couple walked in, silly string, and an emcee on the mic. The house singers sung and later passed their mics on to guests who wanted their turn at karaoke. Singers were rewarded with long-stemmed roses that were purchased (I think) by spectators from the girls in ao dais carrying them in baskets, the way you see flower peddlers in Olde Towne Alexandria in romantic restaurants.
In the meantime, while we were served our multiple course meal, as all respectable weddings of the Vietnamese must be (my mother once paled at the suggestion that buffet weddings were not only practised, but perfectly acceptable for Americans, though she's seen enough now to know that there isn't anything wrong about them), the bride and groom swept from table to table to table being photographed with all their guests. Of course, the bride changed into three different wedding gowns in this hour long process. The Vietnamese say "well, you're only married once. You might as well wear as many as you can."
No cake was cut (as the cake is fake, and only for show), and as soon as the dessert (lychees) was served, tables cleared as the majority of guests went home. The entire fantastic affair lasted until 9:00 (It was scheduled to begin at 6:00, but since we are on Vietnamese time, we did not arrive until 7:30). And that was it. A Vietnamese wedding.
June 11, 2001
Sai Gon, June 11, 2001
I haven’t had a chance to expand on my trip to Buon Me Thuot, and yet, much has happened since then. I’ve been feeling under the weather ever since the trip, and it caught up to me by the end of the week. Friday night I went to bed (after reading some Harry Potter, Book IV), and woke up about 14 hours later at 2 in the afternoon on Saturday. Talk about tired! I then spent the rest of the day working on menus for Di 10’s restaurants, and despite my cold, rode on a motorbike out to the city in the middle of a rainstorm in the evening. I met up with Thanh (who had a CAR) at Dong Du Cafe and showed him how to play Gin Rummy, one of the only card games I know (and I can’t even remember all the rules really), and we played till we had to pick up Di 10 at a wedding she was attending.
Sunday morning I went with Di 10, her friend Mr. Hoang, and Trinh Murphy. Trinh is a distant relation with Di 10, has lived in Paris and NY, and is settled in Williamsburg, VA with her husband Joe, a U.S. Diplomat. They are wonderful companions and it was such a relief to have a normal conversation with some Americans over the last week. I so enjoyed their company. Anyway, as Joe was not feeling well, he did not join us. The rest of us went to visit a home beyond the city that is taken care of by a man we call Thai (meaning “teacher”).
Thai’s home is built from scraps that he collects, and in it lives elderly women, and young children, most of whom are physically disabled, mentally retarded, or otherwise handicapped. Some of the children go to school. All are far below normal height and weight for their ages. All are loved and respected in this humble home.
There are about a dozen women in their 70s and 80s, and around 20 children. Older children care for younger children. Abler women feed the more disabled, abler children feed the more disabled. All are taught to be so very polite and kind to strangers. I took pictures, which I’d like to share when I get them from Trinh. If you could see what I saw, I don’t think you could ever go back to wasting the way we waste, and you would have total appreciation for what you have. It is incomprehensible to waste food, toys and clothes the way we do in the States. I’m guessing, but about ten US dollars could feed this family of over 30 for a week, $30 could send one of the children to school for a year. It's so easy not to think about this kind of poverty (even while in Vietnam!) when we're not facing it with our own eyes.
These kids sleep on the cement floors, black ants, bugs and mosquitoes biting them incessantly. Scrap food, of which ingredients are sometimes picked up from the piles of discarded and dirty legumes in the Sai Gon markets, cooked into hot meals and responsibility to each other are the core of their existence. One child was left mentally retarded from the ants that had attacked him when he was found abandoned and tied to a tree. The pain they have gone through is inconceivable yet they are able to find such joy in amusement from an object as simple as a rubber band.
I have to stop writing…
Mom, dad, my cold is wearing off. I’m okay and will be glad to be home in July.
H.
I haven’t had a chance to expand on my trip to Buon Me Thuot, and yet, much has happened since then. I’ve been feeling under the weather ever since the trip, and it caught up to me by the end of the week. Friday night I went to bed (after reading some Harry Potter, Book IV), and woke up about 14 hours later at 2 in the afternoon on Saturday. Talk about tired! I then spent the rest of the day working on menus for Di 10’s restaurants, and despite my cold, rode on a motorbike out to the city in the middle of a rainstorm in the evening. I met up with Thanh (who had a CAR) at Dong Du Cafe and showed him how to play Gin Rummy, one of the only card games I know (and I can’t even remember all the rules really), and we played till we had to pick up Di 10 at a wedding she was attending.
Sunday morning I went with Di 10, her friend Mr. Hoang, and Trinh Murphy. Trinh is a distant relation with Di 10, has lived in Paris and NY, and is settled in Williamsburg, VA with her husband Joe, a U.S. Diplomat. They are wonderful companions and it was such a relief to have a normal conversation with some Americans over the last week. I so enjoyed their company. Anyway, as Joe was not feeling well, he did not join us. The rest of us went to visit a home beyond the city that is taken care of by a man we call Thai (meaning “teacher”).
Thai’s home is built from scraps that he collects, and in it lives elderly women, and young children, most of whom are physically disabled, mentally retarded, or otherwise handicapped. Some of the children go to school. All are far below normal height and weight for their ages. All are loved and respected in this humble home.
There are about a dozen women in their 70s and 80s, and around 20 children. Older children care for younger children. Abler women feed the more disabled, abler children feed the more disabled. All are taught to be so very polite and kind to strangers. I took pictures, which I’d like to share when I get them from Trinh. If you could see what I saw, I don’t think you could ever go back to wasting the way we waste, and you would have total appreciation for what you have. It is incomprehensible to waste food, toys and clothes the way we do in the States. I’m guessing, but about ten US dollars could feed this family of over 30 for a week, $30 could send one of the children to school for a year. It's so easy not to think about this kind of poverty (even while in Vietnam!) when we're not facing it with our own eyes.
These kids sleep on the cement floors, black ants, bugs and mosquitoes biting them incessantly. Scrap food, of which ingredients are sometimes picked up from the piles of discarded and dirty legumes in the Sai Gon markets, cooked into hot meals and responsibility to each other are the core of their existence. One child was left mentally retarded from the ants that had attacked him when he was found abandoned and tied to a tree. The pain they have gone through is inconceivable yet they are able to find such joy in amusement from an object as simple as a rubber band.
I have to stop writing…
Mom, dad, my cold is wearing off. I’m okay and will be glad to be home in July.
H.
June 07, 2001
From two days ago-
Sai Gon, June 5, 2001
I’m back from Buon Me Thuot, two 8 hour bus rides and 8 mediocre meals later. It is a curse having been born to a good cook, because it is nearly impossible to eat on the road. The trip was a good and true VIETNAMESE experience. I went with Linh, her friend Truc, their professor (Truc’s father), his wife, and 45 other Vietnamese dentists, and dental professors.
I am so incredibly American.
The fifty of us loaded up the bus by 6 a.m. on Friday morning, got on the road for a breakfast nearby, and continued on the road. The tour guide, Tam, began with gifts for the children on board (there were 3) as it was International Children’s Day (which is celebrated throughout Vietnam in a variety of charitable events, entertainment, crafts, fairs, and festivals). Tam then followed up with a lot of talking that I didn’t completely understand, and then sang a song. He got off the microphone and I thought “okay, rest and peace.” But no, a play on video appears on the monitor and the box speakers, spread along the bus, are blaring the comedians’ voices. I put my MD headphones on and try to drown out the Vietnamese I can't understand with Bono singing in my ears.
A few hours later, we pull over at a restaurant that has a fake “SaigonTourist” sticker on its door. SaigonTourist is the largest tour operator in Vietnam, formerly a monopoly, and very reputable. I brought along a chicken sandwich that I ate instead of the eel that was served and met some of the other people on our trip. A few hours onward, we stopped at our first site, Dryspar or something (I can’t remember). A waterfall site. It’s pretty, but not remarkable. What was remarkable was the fellow standing at the top of the falls throwing out his fishing net and catching the downstream fish. Roughly an hour later, we climbed aboard and went to a second spot where there were other falls, beautiful landscaping, natural boulders, and tall treehouses that were easy to climb but difficult to descend.
From there, we went back to the hotel, and I will continue with Saturday’s events (the elephant ride) later as I’m too tired to go on right now. H.
Sai Gon, June 5, 2001
I’m back from Buon Me Thuot, two 8 hour bus rides and 8 mediocre meals later. It is a curse having been born to a good cook, because it is nearly impossible to eat on the road. The trip was a good and true VIETNAMESE experience. I went with Linh, her friend Truc, their professor (Truc’s father), his wife, and 45 other Vietnamese dentists, and dental professors.
I am so incredibly American.
The fifty of us loaded up the bus by 6 a.m. on Friday morning, got on the road for a breakfast nearby, and continued on the road. The tour guide, Tam, began with gifts for the children on board (there were 3) as it was International Children’s Day (which is celebrated throughout Vietnam in a variety of charitable events, entertainment, crafts, fairs, and festivals). Tam then followed up with a lot of talking that I didn’t completely understand, and then sang a song. He got off the microphone and I thought “okay, rest and peace.” But no, a play on video appears on the monitor and the box speakers, spread along the bus, are blaring the comedians’ voices. I put my MD headphones on and try to drown out the Vietnamese I can't understand with Bono singing in my ears.
A few hours later, we pull over at a restaurant that has a fake “SaigonTourist” sticker on its door. SaigonTourist is the largest tour operator in Vietnam, formerly a monopoly, and very reputable. I brought along a chicken sandwich that I ate instead of the eel that was served and met some of the other people on our trip. A few hours onward, we stopped at our first site, Dryspar or something (I can’t remember). A waterfall site. It’s pretty, but not remarkable. What was remarkable was the fellow standing at the top of the falls throwing out his fishing net and catching the downstream fish. Roughly an hour later, we climbed aboard and went to a second spot where there were other falls, beautiful landscaping, natural boulders, and tall treehouses that were easy to climb but difficult to descend.
From there, we went back to the hotel, and I will continue with Saturday’s events (the elephant ride) later as I’m too tired to go on right now. H.
Captions to additional pictures on Souris' site:
A full doc moc boat, me fooling around (see what strength fish sauce can give you?) in the woods (waterfalls in back complete with rainbow), another picture of Linh and I on Ban, and a waterfall we visited near Buon Me Thuot (not as great as Great Falls, I have to say).
The other four are described below
A full doc moc boat, me fooling around (see what strength fish sauce can give you?) in the woods (waterfalls in back complete with rainbow), another picture of Linh and I on Ban, and a waterfall we visited near Buon Me Thuot (not as great as Great Falls, I have to say).
The other four are described below
Sai Gon, June 7, 2001
Only about a month away from being home, Home!
Buon Me Thuot was a good trip for me to take. I spent a weekend with 50 vietnamese and have much to say about it, but left the part I wrote about it at the house (and I’m in the office).
Go to Souris’ site, Saigon Soldier, for pictures of my trip. I rode an elephant named Ban, who is 40 years old. She’s been in captivity since she was 2, once bore a baby that did not survive long, and she hauls logs when she’s not carrying people around. There’s also a picture of Linh and I feeding Ban with sugar cane sticks. The natives are M’nong and H’mong; some of the few minority groups here in Vietnam. They live in these great long houses where they invited us in and performed some traditional songs & danced for us. Typical of the area, these long houses have walls made of woven palm, and stand on logs and bamboo stilts. They’re generally one large room with cool hardwood floors, straw mats, and hold entire families. Pigs, chickens, dogs, and other animals live under and around the homes.
On Souris’ site, you’ll see my pictures riding in a doc moc, a boat made from a single log. It’s similar in width and length of rowing shell for 8 (plus cox). I sat in stroke.
Have again lost my train of thought as I’ve just been interrupted by a phone call and fear that Thanh might be by any minute to pick me up (then I won’t be able to send you these pictures).
So, till tomorrow.
H.
Only about a month away from being home, Home!
Buon Me Thuot was a good trip for me to take. I spent a weekend with 50 vietnamese and have much to say about it, but left the part I wrote about it at the house (and I’m in the office).
Go to Souris’ site, Saigon Soldier, for pictures of my trip. I rode an elephant named Ban, who is 40 years old. She’s been in captivity since she was 2, once bore a baby that did not survive long, and she hauls logs when she’s not carrying people around. There’s also a picture of Linh and I feeding Ban with sugar cane sticks. The natives are M’nong and H’mong; some of the few minority groups here in Vietnam. They live in these great long houses where they invited us in and performed some traditional songs & danced for us. Typical of the area, these long houses have walls made of woven palm, and stand on logs and bamboo stilts. They’re generally one large room with cool hardwood floors, straw mats, and hold entire families. Pigs, chickens, dogs, and other animals live under and around the homes.
On Souris’ site, you’ll see my pictures riding in a doc moc, a boat made from a single log. It’s similar in width and length of rowing shell for 8 (plus cox). I sat in stroke.
Have again lost my train of thought as I’ve just been interrupted by a phone call and fear that Thanh might be by any minute to pick me up (then I won’t be able to send you these pictures).
So, till tomorrow.
H.
