Critical acclaim for the funny Hongs:
"About peed myself on the "normal kid" emails from your siblings...your family is too damn funny." (Dave Eckert)
Click on funny hongs
January 27, 2002
Saigon, Vietnam
Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and all of the temples of Angkor were incredibly beautiful, large, and moving, and in general, have left me inarticulate and speechless so bear with this blog. A few of the temples were still in the midst of the jungle where you could see how nature's trees have destroyed many of the walls and buildings. Chuong, Linh and I rented mountain bikes on our first day to ride around the outskirts of the temples. We spent two days exploring the temples and their ruins and enjoyed a short tour of one of the temples by a local guide of about 9 years old. In one of the buildings, the boy explained to us how as you walk towards the center of the temple, the doorways gradually decrease in height. The reason for it was to force all entrants to bow to the Buddha upon approach. The kids here learn English from the time they're babies from the tourists, it's amazing. Many of them speak French as well. It's interesting though - most of their goods sold at market actually come from Thailand, and one can see the Thai influence on the design of Cambodian products.
The weather was pretty hot so we cooled off with some cold coconuts by a drink stand where we met an interesting German cultural anthropologist named Mark who spoke Vietnamese and owned an FM2 just like mine. Though two days time was good enough to explore the highlights and major buildings, perhaps an extra day or two is really necessary to absorb all of the information and history of the temples of Angkor.
Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and all of the temples of Angkor were incredibly beautiful, large, and moving, and in general, have left me inarticulate and speechless so bear with this blog. A few of the temples were still in the midst of the jungle where you could see how nature's trees have destroyed many of the walls and buildings. Chuong, Linh and I rented mountain bikes on our first day to ride around the outskirts of the temples. We spent two days exploring the temples and their ruins and enjoyed a short tour of one of the temples by a local guide of about 9 years old. In one of the buildings, the boy explained to us how as you walk towards the center of the temple, the doorways gradually decrease in height. The reason for it was to force all entrants to bow to the Buddha upon approach. The kids here learn English from the time they're babies from the tourists, it's amazing. Many of them speak French as well. It's interesting though - most of their goods sold at market actually come from Thailand, and one can see the Thai influence on the design of Cambodian products.
The weather was pretty hot so we cooled off with some cold coconuts by a drink stand where we met an interesting German cultural anthropologist named Mark who spoke Vietnamese and owned an FM2 just like mine. Though two days time was good enough to explore the highlights and major buildings, perhaps an extra day or two is really necessary to absorb all of the information and history of the temples of Angkor.
January 23, 2002
January 24, 2002
Saigon, VIETNAM
Heading to Cambodia tomorrow for a 3 day weekend to spend some time at Angkor Wat during the last full moon of the lunar year and staying at posh Sofitel for sybaritic comfort.
Last 2 rolls of film have been dropped off and will be scanned when I'm next free, which might be a week from now. Otherwise, enjoy the photos online.
Ciao,
H.
Saigon, VIETNAM
Heading to Cambodia tomorrow for a 3 day weekend to spend some time at Angkor Wat during the last full moon of the lunar year and staying at posh Sofitel for sybaritic comfort.
Last 2 rolls of film have been dropped off and will be scanned when I'm next free, which might be a week from now. Otherwise, enjoy the photos online.
Ciao,
H.
January 21, 2002
Saigon, Vietnam
Okay, Kim has posted the 50 photos from her digicam on this site. Check it out.
Adventure photos
In the second picture, notice how smokey Sydney was that day - from all the bush fires. It cleared up the next day, though.
Yesterday I spent a beautiful day in Vung Tau at the Binh An resort which hasn't even opened yet, but it's a graciously landscaped plot of land on what I consider to be one of Vietnam's most commercially tacky beach towns. It's a beautiful haven to which you are wonderfully excluded from the rest of the peninsula. Unfortunately, my return to Vietnam this time is similar to that of my return in August - I'm grumpy. I'm grumpy because all of the littering and bribery and dishonesty of the country is intolerable after being in such magnificent countries as Australia and New Zealand. No matter, I will only be here for less than four weeks and I'll spend most of it on vacation outside of Saigon. Tomorrow I will go to the beach for 2 days and then head to Cambodia for about 3 or 4 days. Should be fun. Will try to get pictures up before I leave VN if possible. If not, you'll just have to wait till Spring. I'm BUSY for a retired person.
ciao,
h.
Okay, Kim has posted the 50 photos from her digicam on this site. Check it out.
Adventure photos
In the second picture, notice how smokey Sydney was that day - from all the bush fires. It cleared up the next day, though.
Yesterday I spent a beautiful day in Vung Tau at the Binh An resort which hasn't even opened yet, but it's a graciously landscaped plot of land on what I consider to be one of Vietnam's most commercially tacky beach towns. It's a beautiful haven to which you are wonderfully excluded from the rest of the peninsula. Unfortunately, my return to Vietnam this time is similar to that of my return in August - I'm grumpy. I'm grumpy because all of the littering and bribery and dishonesty of the country is intolerable after being in such magnificent countries as Australia and New Zealand. No matter, I will only be here for less than four weeks and I'll spend most of it on vacation outside of Saigon. Tomorrow I will go to the beach for 2 days and then head to Cambodia for about 3 or 4 days. Should be fun. Will try to get pictures up before I leave VN if possible. If not, you'll just have to wait till Spring. I'm BUSY for a retired person.
ciao,
h.
January 18, 2002
By the way, for a funny read, click on this: funny hongs. It's a series of e-mails between my siblings and I from last summer. You may rethink knowing our family after this one. Definitely amusing. And all in good love.
BANGKOK, Thailand
18 January 2002 11:05p.m. Bangkok time / 3:05 a.m Jan 19 Sydney time
I'm beat, and I've run into a snag. I've decided that I don't really like Bangkok. At least I hate their airport. It is riddled with mosquitos. I hate mosquitos.
Second, I am tired. Really tired. I just had a 9 hour flight from Sydney. And my checked luggage is inaccessible to me. They were checked to Bangkok and arrive on the belt beyond Immigration which means if I went to get my bag, I'd have to leave the airport, and come back in the a.m. and pay the airport fee to come back. So I checked with a Thai Airways rep who told me that my bags would be left in storage if I don't pick them up (and if somebody else doesn't pick them up, I guess they won't be left anywhere at all). Now I just have to hope that the Buddhas are on my side and that I am in an honourable country and that my bags will be taken care of. If they're not, there goes everybodys' gifts. So then I went to check in to the airport transit hotel and they charge rates double what the 5 star hotels in town charge. It's highway robbery! Or maybe I should call it runway robbery.
So I'm left to fend for myself in the lounges till morning. Hopefully I can stand the 14 hours of transit sitting in airport seats. Luckily, dear Chuong will pick me up at the airport in Saigon, and he'll probably feed me too, and then I will get a nice day's sleep.
Otherwise, everything in Sydney and NZ were great. I spent the morning at the Powerhouse museum where they had three really cool exhibits. The first exhibit was 50 years of Festival Records, then marc newson design works (he is the designer for many objects I'm sure you've seen before, including works for Alessi, Idee, and Ikepod., and the third exhibit was 'ecologic: creating a sustainable future' which was an exhibit "about the way we use the world.... new ideas and technologies that can reduce our individual and collective impact on the planet." Very cool museum and especially cool for kids.
It's sad to have parted with Kim - "who am I going to speak English with?" I complained, but it 's okay. Only a few weeks more till I'm back in the States. Maybe return to the real world - maybe. And that would mean working and living back in New York again... Anyone have a job I can't refuse? By the way - minimum four weeks vacation a year. I've learned my life lesson. Never take a job with less than 4 weeks of vacation.
Time to get offline. Everything in Thailand for foreigners is so expensive.
Ciao tutti.
H
18 January 2002 11:05p.m. Bangkok time / 3:05 a.m Jan 19 Sydney time
I'm beat, and I've run into a snag. I've decided that I don't really like Bangkok. At least I hate their airport. It is riddled with mosquitos. I hate mosquitos.
Second, I am tired. Really tired. I just had a 9 hour flight from Sydney. And my checked luggage is inaccessible to me. They were checked to Bangkok and arrive on the belt beyond Immigration which means if I went to get my bag, I'd have to leave the airport, and come back in the a.m. and pay the airport fee to come back. So I checked with a Thai Airways rep who told me that my bags would be left in storage if I don't pick them up (and if somebody else doesn't pick them up, I guess they won't be left anywhere at all). Now I just have to hope that the Buddhas are on my side and that I am in an honourable country and that my bags will be taken care of. If they're not, there goes everybodys' gifts. So then I went to check in to the airport transit hotel and they charge rates double what the 5 star hotels in town charge. It's highway robbery! Or maybe I should call it runway robbery.
So I'm left to fend for myself in the lounges till morning. Hopefully I can stand the 14 hours of transit sitting in airport seats. Luckily, dear Chuong will pick me up at the airport in Saigon, and he'll probably feed me too, and then I will get a nice day's sleep.
Otherwise, everything in Sydney and NZ were great. I spent the morning at the Powerhouse museum where they had three really cool exhibits. The first exhibit was 50 years of Festival Records, then marc newson design works (he is the designer for many objects I'm sure you've seen before, including works for Alessi, Idee, and Ikepod., and the third exhibit was 'ecologic: creating a sustainable future' which was an exhibit "about the way we use the world.... new ideas and technologies that can reduce our individual and collective impact on the planet." Very cool museum and especially cool for kids.
It's sad to have parted with Kim - "who am I going to speak English with?" I complained, but it 's okay. Only a few weeks more till I'm back in the States. Maybe return to the real world - maybe. And that would mean working and living back in New York again... Anyone have a job I can't refuse? By the way - minimum four weeks vacation a year. I've learned my life lesson. Never take a job with less than 4 weeks of vacation.
Time to get offline. Everything in Thailand for foreigners is so expensive.
Ciao tutti.
H
January 16, 2002
17 January 2002
1:00 a.m. CHRISTCHURCH, New Zealand
Kim and I drove up today and unfortunately, my flight plans changed and I fly out of Christchurch in about six hours - which means I leave here in about four hours and somehow I've got to get some sleep. Kim and I had to scrap the whale watching in Kaikoura (about a three hour drive up north). It's okay, because we've decided that we both have to return to Australia and New Zealand to really do all that we want to do. These two countries have so much to offer - I'd consider moving to Sydney even (such a great city). Plus then, Kim would have a free place to stay.
I arrive in Sydney around 8 a.m. tomorrow which will be great because I wanted to get to the Powerhouse museum and also the Museum of Contemporary Art as there is a great neo-Tokyo exhibit of emerging Japanese artists. Hey Sor, does Tokion need an article? Kim arrives about 8 p.m. and then we spend the following day at the Botanical Gardens and go to the airport to part at about 1 p.m. Kim heads back to the real world and I head back to my life as a professional freeloader - oh! I mean life in the unreal-but-fabulous-live-and-eat-and-travel-like-a-queen world.
H.
1:00 a.m. CHRISTCHURCH, New Zealand
Kim and I drove up today and unfortunately, my flight plans changed and I fly out of Christchurch in about six hours - which means I leave here in about four hours and somehow I've got to get some sleep. Kim and I had to scrap the whale watching in Kaikoura (about a three hour drive up north). It's okay, because we've decided that we both have to return to Australia and New Zealand to really do all that we want to do. These two countries have so much to offer - I'd consider moving to Sydney even (such a great city). Plus then, Kim would have a free place to stay.
I arrive in Sydney around 8 a.m. tomorrow which will be great because I wanted to get to the Powerhouse museum and also the Museum of Contemporary Art as there is a great neo-Tokyo exhibit of emerging Japanese artists. Hey Sor, does Tokion need an article? Kim arrives about 8 p.m. and then we spend the following day at the Botanical Gardens and go to the airport to part at about 1 p.m. Kim heads back to the real world and I head back to my life as a professional freeloader - oh! I mean life in the unreal-but-fabulous-live-and-eat-and-travel-like-a-queen world.
H.
January 15, 2002
16 January 2002
Queenstown, New Zealand
Kim and I head out for a long day's drive today to Christchurch. We take the kind McErlain's out for a nice dinner, and weather permitting, we'll drive onward to Kaikoura to get on a whale watch tour at 6:15 a.m. the next morning. Tour over, we drive the 3 hours back to Christchurch directly to the airport and fly on out to Sydney.
Our whirlwind vacation is - sniff sniff - coming to an end.
I am going to have to find ways to continue to fund my retirement and Kim is going to have to find ways to extend her vacations - we have a lot planned for the future!
Will check back in before heading out of Australia (Jan 18)
Kim & Hani
Queenstown, New Zealand
Kim and I head out for a long day's drive today to Christchurch. We take the kind McErlain's out for a nice dinner, and weather permitting, we'll drive onward to Kaikoura to get on a whale watch tour at 6:15 a.m. the next morning. Tour over, we drive the 3 hours back to Christchurch directly to the airport and fly on out to Sydney.
Our whirlwind vacation is - sniff sniff - coming to an end.
I am going to have to find ways to continue to fund my retirement and Kim is going to have to find ways to extend her vacations - we have a lot planned for the future!
Will check back in before heading out of Australia (Jan 18)
Kim & Hani
QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND
January 15, 2002
Good morning.
Let me tell you about our day.
8:00 a.m. head over to NZONE to check in for our morning adventure.
8:30 - watch the promo video
9:00 - get in a van to drive out to the open fields.
9:30 - put jumpsuits on.
10:00 - get on a small airplane with 8 others - 2 crazy people like me (one of them is Kim), 3 cameramen, 3 instructors - and climb 12,000 feet.
10:30 - jump out of airplane.
What? Did I say that?
repeat.
10:30 jump out of airplane.
10:30:00 - 10:30:50 Free fall at 200kph (124 miles per hour)
10:30:51 - chute opens
10:31 - enjoy beautiful view of New Zealand, Lake Wakapitu, Queenstown, and the Remarkables Mountain Range while steering my chute. Kim a few thousand feet above me.
About 10:35 - Mac (my instructor) lands us.
About 10:37 - Luis (Kim's instructor) lands them.
It fucking rocked. Oh, did I say that?
Let me say it again. It fucking ROCKED.
Kim and I were left with PERMA-Grins on our faces throughout the whole dive and for hours afterwards. Wow.
Okay, so after skydiving today, Kim and I went jet boating which is this crazy New Zealand invention of going in a turbo powered 400 horsepower jet boat at 70km an hour on water as low as 10cm through a canyon. This included a few 360's at high speed, and missing canyon rocks by inches. After skydiving, it felt like a Disney ride. If that wasn't enough, we took a helicopter ride thru the canyon to get to the start of our white water rafting - level 3 and 4 rapids and no one fell out of the boat. All this before dinner time.
Not a bad day's work, eh?
What did YOU do today?
January 15, 2002
Good morning.
Let me tell you about our day.
8:00 a.m. head over to NZONE to check in for our morning adventure.
8:30 - watch the promo video
9:00 - get in a van to drive out to the open fields.
9:30 - put jumpsuits on.
10:00 - get on a small airplane with 8 others - 2 crazy people like me (one of them is Kim), 3 cameramen, 3 instructors - and climb 12,000 feet.
10:30 - jump out of airplane.
What? Did I say that?
repeat.
10:30 jump out of airplane.
10:30:00 - 10:30:50 Free fall at 200kph (124 miles per hour)
10:30:51 - chute opens
10:31 - enjoy beautiful view of New Zealand, Lake Wakapitu, Queenstown, and the Remarkables Mountain Range while steering my chute. Kim a few thousand feet above me.
About 10:35 - Mac (my instructor) lands us.
About 10:37 - Luis (Kim's instructor) lands them.
It fucking rocked. Oh, did I say that?
Let me say it again. It fucking ROCKED.
Kim and I were left with PERMA-Grins on our faces throughout the whole dive and for hours afterwards. Wow.
Okay, so after skydiving today, Kim and I went jet boating which is this crazy New Zealand invention of going in a turbo powered 400 horsepower jet boat at 70km an hour on water as low as 10cm through a canyon. This included a few 360's at high speed, and missing canyon rocks by inches. After skydiving, it felt like a Disney ride. If that wasn't enough, we took a helicopter ride thru the canyon to get to the start of our white water rafting - level 3 and 4 rapids and no one fell out of the boat. All this before dinner time.
Not a bad day's work, eh?
What did YOU do today?
In brief, let me tell you what the New Zealand culture is like. I will quote the ten dollar bill:
On the front: " the dawn of a new era lights the way for New zealand's perpetual voyage of innovation and discovery."
On the back: "Celebrating New Zealand's free spirit and quest for adventure in the new millennium."
Somehow, it moves me a bit more than "In God we trust," but that's me.
These New Zealander's definitely know how to embrace life. No question.
On the front: " the dawn of a new era lights the way for New zealand's perpetual voyage of innovation and discovery."
On the back: "Celebrating New Zealand's free spirit and quest for adventure in the new millennium."
Somehow, it moves me a bit more than "In God we trust," but that's me.
These New Zealander's definitely know how to embrace life. No question.
January 14, 2002
January 14, 2002
QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND
Adventure capital of the world.
Hey, so since we last wrote, we spent a day driving westward to chase the sun down and went to Franz Josef. It was raining in Queenstown so Kim and I detoured towards the West Coast where it had been raining the week before (this prepared us for lots of outrageous waterfalls). We took our time driving through Arthur's Pass National Park which lies across the Southern Alps, Greymouth (a coastal town), past Shantytown, through Hokitika to get to Franz Josef by evening with a gorgeous view of the Franz Josef Glacier.
Next morning, we woke up early to head to the office where we put our boots, ice gear & extra layers on to get on a chopper that took us 3 km (about 2 miles) up the glacier ridge. There, we landed atop the blue ice and began our little trek around the glacier, through the ice sculptures, a little ice hole, and between some slick blue ice walls. Kim and I went camera crazy and took lots of photos that you will soon get to see. Hike over, back on the chopper, back to town, and then back in the car for the most amazingly spectacular drive we've ever (or at least me) been on.
click photo to go to album
The drive was dramatic with lots of waterfalls, lake views with mountainous backdrops, and beautiful panoramas. We stopped at Thunder Creek Falls and Fantail Falls before passing the Haast Pass which is the main divide between the western and eastern sides of the Southern Alps. We took a slight detour to Lake Wanaka to stop for food at the very charming small town, and onward past the most beautiful Lake Hawea as the sun set across the mountains across the lake and causing the like to shine. Kim and I made it to Queenstown by nightfall and spent our first day here on a tour to Milford Sound which is actually a fiord - the 14th of 14 along the coast. It even has a Mt. Kimberly with a waterfall whose name starts with S but we can't remember and it's height is 3 times that of Niagara falls, which appears unbelievable in sight because of the sheer size of the rocky mountains around it.
Queenstown is gorgeous with Lake Wakatipu as its center (our hotel window faces on the water), and the Remarkables - an incredible mountain range that runs directly on a north-south line on earth. Tomorrow Kim and I have a full day of adventures which we shall remark upon if we're not beat, and the following day we attempt to get to Kaikoura for some whale watching.
New Zealand is incredibly beautiful - I've never seen a country like it. I could die here.
Life rocks.
We are both really happy here down under.
QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND
Adventure capital of the world.
Hey, so since we last wrote, we spent a day driving westward to chase the sun down and went to Franz Josef. It was raining in Queenstown so Kim and I detoured towards the West Coast where it had been raining the week before (this prepared us for lots of outrageous waterfalls). We took our time driving through Arthur's Pass National Park which lies across the Southern Alps, Greymouth (a coastal town), past Shantytown, through Hokitika to get to Franz Josef by evening with a gorgeous view of the Franz Josef Glacier.
Next morning, we woke up early to head to the office where we put our boots, ice gear & extra layers on to get on a chopper that took us 3 km (about 2 miles) up the glacier ridge. There, we landed atop the blue ice and began our little trek around the glacier, through the ice sculptures, a little ice hole, and between some slick blue ice walls. Kim and I went camera crazy and took lots of photos that you will soon get to see. Hike over, back on the chopper, back to town, and then back in the car for the most amazingly spectacular drive we've ever (or at least me) been on.
click photo to go to album
The drive was dramatic with lots of waterfalls, lake views with mountainous backdrops, and beautiful panoramas. We stopped at Thunder Creek Falls and Fantail Falls before passing the Haast Pass which is the main divide between the western and eastern sides of the Southern Alps. We took a slight detour to Lake Wanaka to stop for food at the very charming small town, and onward past the most beautiful Lake Hawea as the sun set across the mountains across the lake and causing the like to shine. Kim and I made it to Queenstown by nightfall and spent our first day here on a tour to Milford Sound which is actually a fiord - the 14th of 14 along the coast. It even has a Mt. Kimberly with a waterfall whose name starts with S but we can't remember and it's height is 3 times that of Niagara falls, which appears unbelievable in sight because of the sheer size of the rocky mountains around it.
Queenstown is gorgeous with Lake Wakatipu as its center (our hotel window faces on the water), and the Remarkables - an incredible mountain range that runs directly on a north-south line on earth. Tomorrow Kim and I have a full day of adventures which we shall remark upon if we're not beat, and the following day we attempt to get to Kaikoura for some whale watching.
New Zealand is incredibly beautiful - I've never seen a country like it. I could die here.
Life rocks.
We are both really happy here down under.
January 11, 2002
January 11, 2002
CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND
We've arrived in New Zealand and it's COLD! In the low to mid 50's and I'm not used to it. Plus, I've only got one long-sleeved shirt with me so I'm borrowing some clothes from Justin's mom - we're staying at the McErlains' nice home in Christchurch (Justin's parents).
Turns out we're on a pretty tight schedule here, but if all goes well, Kim and I will be on a Glacier heli-hike tomorrow - that is, a helicopter ride over the Franz Josef Glacier and then a two hour hike over the ice and crevasses.
Since we last wrote, Kim and I spent the 8th and 9th in the Wooroonooran National Park south of Cairns hiking in virgin rainforest. Our first day was about 14 km through rugged terrain climbing over fallen trees, through prickly branches, and over boulders to get to camp nearby a small waterfall. The most common form of wildlife we saw was a gigantic spider in her huge web across our path (many times). We refilled our water at the fresh water rivers and after doing that, jumped in to cool off from the incredible heat we felt from the strenuous hiking. Kim and I decided that "We're fit!"
About seven hours after we began our journey into the forest, we made it to camp where we hung our hammocks and discovered what it feels like to be leeched. YUCK. Kim and I both got several leech bites (as did others) and it was a pretty nasty experience, especially the part where you have to grab and yank 'em off your skin. Gross. Norm, one of our tour guides, told us that if you want to be bitten by anything, it's a leech, because they're so clean. No thanks.
In the morning we woke up to a nice hour hike to the Muchupa (sp.?) waterfall, the best one we'd seen since we were in Australia. We got into our swimmers (that's what they call suits here) and had a nice cold blast of water to wake us up. Swimming underneath the waterfall was one of the highlights of our trip in Australia, as we were surrounded by the rainforest and its unique sounds. We asked Peter (our funny guide) what Muchupa means in Aborigine. He said "Mom eats dad." After another thought, he said "cow eats dad" and we decided we were better off trusting Norm with our questions. Back on track with camp packed up, we made it out of the rainforest after about 12 km of climbing uphill to the finish. We made it - even with our injuries. Injuries? Well, minor, but they hurt like hell. Kim's feet slipped out from under her on one of the boulders by the waterfall and she landed on her tailbone - who knew that it hurts your butt to sneeze? Now we know. I on the other hand, slipped on a rock and nearly face planted into another but managed to keep my nose off the rock and instead hit a shin. My next injury came when we had to climb onto a log to cross the river. My knee went up and - oops - discovered a log. So, bruised and battered (and there are a lot of spiky ferns in the rainforest, mind you), we made it out alive and well and returned safely to Cairns.
About 10 hours after returning to Cairns, we left for the airport at 4 a.m. to get to the airport for Sydney for our layover to Christchurch. Once at the airport, we discovered to our great dismay that my connection was unconfirmed (even though we were told it was earlier) and the flight was overbooked by 14 passengers. Not happy with my travel agents, Kim and I rushed to the Qantas counter at the airport to get myself onto the Christchurch flight. Gary, the supervisor on hand who looks a lot like Anthony Hopkins, was kind enough get me onto that plane. Phew! With all of that over, Kim and I headed to town to do BridgeClimb - climbing to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, about 438 feet above the water. Very cool experience and great views. As soon as we finished with that, our nonstop selves returned to the airport and got on our flight to Christchurch, arriving at my friend Justin's parents' house at about 1 in the morning.
It feels so good to be in a home and not in a hotel - the McErlain's are taking great care of us, feeding us, warming up the beds with the electric blankets, and warming up our bath towels on the great towel rack warmer. We spent the day in town browsing around and taking the historic little tram.
We're in a bit of conflict with the weather, but we've decided to change our itinerary so we can chase after the sun and avoid the rains where we can. After the glaciers, Kim and I will head to Queenstown - the Adventure Capital of the World. Don't worry moms and dads - we're not stupid enough to go bungee jumping.
All right - good night to all - we've got a long drive ahead of us.
CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND
We've arrived in New Zealand and it's COLD! In the low to mid 50's and I'm not used to it. Plus, I've only got one long-sleeved shirt with me so I'm borrowing some clothes from Justin's mom - we're staying at the McErlains' nice home in Christchurch (Justin's parents).
Turns out we're on a pretty tight schedule here, but if all goes well, Kim and I will be on a Glacier heli-hike tomorrow - that is, a helicopter ride over the Franz Josef Glacier and then a two hour hike over the ice and crevasses.
Since we last wrote, Kim and I spent the 8th and 9th in the Wooroonooran National Park south of Cairns hiking in virgin rainforest. Our first day was about 14 km through rugged terrain climbing over fallen trees, through prickly branches, and over boulders to get to camp nearby a small waterfall. The most common form of wildlife we saw was a gigantic spider in her huge web across our path (many times). We refilled our water at the fresh water rivers and after doing that, jumped in to cool off from the incredible heat we felt from the strenuous hiking. Kim and I decided that "We're fit!"
About seven hours after we began our journey into the forest, we made it to camp where we hung our hammocks and discovered what it feels like to be leeched. YUCK. Kim and I both got several leech bites (as did others) and it was a pretty nasty experience, especially the part where you have to grab and yank 'em off your skin. Gross. Norm, one of our tour guides, told us that if you want to be bitten by anything, it's a leech, because they're so clean. No thanks.
In the morning we woke up to a nice hour hike to the Muchupa (sp.?) waterfall, the best one we'd seen since we were in Australia. We got into our swimmers (that's what they call suits here) and had a nice cold blast of water to wake us up. Swimming underneath the waterfall was one of the highlights of our trip in Australia, as we were surrounded by the rainforest and its unique sounds. We asked Peter (our funny guide) what Muchupa means in Aborigine. He said "Mom eats dad." After another thought, he said "cow eats dad" and we decided we were better off trusting Norm with our questions. Back on track with camp packed up, we made it out of the rainforest after about 12 km of climbing uphill to the finish. We made it - even with our injuries. Injuries? Well, minor, but they hurt like hell. Kim's feet slipped out from under her on one of the boulders by the waterfall and she landed on her tailbone - who knew that it hurts your butt to sneeze? Now we know. I on the other hand, slipped on a rock and nearly face planted into another but managed to keep my nose off the rock and instead hit a shin. My next injury came when we had to climb onto a log to cross the river. My knee went up and - oops - discovered a log. So, bruised and battered (and there are a lot of spiky ferns in the rainforest, mind you), we made it out alive and well and returned safely to Cairns.
About 10 hours after returning to Cairns, we left for the airport at 4 a.m. to get to the airport for Sydney for our layover to Christchurch. Once at the airport, we discovered to our great dismay that my connection was unconfirmed (even though we were told it was earlier) and the flight was overbooked by 14 passengers. Not happy with my travel agents, Kim and I rushed to the Qantas counter at the airport to get myself onto the Christchurch flight. Gary, the supervisor on hand who looks a lot like Anthony Hopkins, was kind enough get me onto that plane. Phew! With all of that over, Kim and I headed to town to do BridgeClimb - climbing to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, about 438 feet above the water. Very cool experience and great views. As soon as we finished with that, our nonstop selves returned to the airport and got on our flight to Christchurch, arriving at my friend Justin's parents' house at about 1 in the morning.
It feels so good to be in a home and not in a hotel - the McErlain's are taking great care of us, feeding us, warming up the beds with the electric blankets, and warming up our bath towels on the great towel rack warmer. We spent the day in town browsing around and taking the historic little tram.
We're in a bit of conflict with the weather, but we've decided to change our itinerary so we can chase after the sun and avoid the rains where we can. After the glaciers, Kim and I will head to Queenstown - the Adventure Capital of the World. Don't worry moms and dads - we're not stupid enough to go bungee jumping.
All right - good night to all - we've got a long drive ahead of us.
January 07, 2002
CAIRNS, AUSTRALIA
January 7, 2002
Cairns is soooo HOT. The further north you go, the hotter it gets - that's what happens on this side of the equator! In just two days, Kim and I have an unbelievable lot to tell you. This morning we headed up to the Kuranda Scenic Railway built a hundred years ago through the Atherton Tablelands from Cairns to Kuranda, a small village that is inhabited by many aborigines. The railway went by Creek, and Barron Falls, but unfortunately the waterfalls were not falling because of the drought in recent months - 60mm of rain instead of their usual 600 at this time of year! We spent time at the Heritage market and the Butterfly Sanctuary and wandered through town before taking the SkyRail back to town where we went to the Tjapukai Aboriginal Park. There, Kim and I both tried playing the didgeridus and practiced throwing boomerangs, and Kim even practiced throwing spears. Interestingly, the targets are kangaroo silhouettes in lieu of America's typical human target. We got back to the hotel where we had to prepare our bags for our big rainforest hike tomorrow where we'll be camping at the top of another waterfall.
Yesterday, we flew in over the Great Barrier Reef (magnificent from the airplane) and into Cairns. We dumped our things at our hotel and headed out for our half day tour on the reef. We started in the "yellow submarine" - a really touristy sub type thing with glass below and to the sides. We got some great views of the reef at Green Island and Kim even got a cool video with her new digital camera (go mom! we said). Looking like funny frogs, we got our snorkeling gear on and went snorkeling in the reef - Kim saw a shark and we high-tailed it back to the shore. After mustering up a bit more courage (and getting used to breathing through our mouths and not our noses), Kim and I headed back out in the water and managed to finally get the hang of snorkeling (saw a parafish and others) by the time we had to leave.
Back on the hydrofoil, Kim had a canned rum and cola - recommended by Todd, one of our skippers - and I had the lemon lime with vodka premixed in a can as well. Good ideas, we thought and not bad, either!
So it's time to stop as we're running out of time. There was much more to blog about but we'll get to it later as we're both being eaten by bugs. (p.s. I had a Morton Bay Bug last night. You will have to wait till we get back from the rainforest to find out what that is).
Hani & Kim.
January 7, 2002
Cairns is soooo HOT. The further north you go, the hotter it gets - that's what happens on this side of the equator! In just two days, Kim and I have an unbelievable lot to tell you. This morning we headed up to the Kuranda Scenic Railway built a hundred years ago through the Atherton Tablelands from Cairns to Kuranda, a small village that is inhabited by many aborigines. The railway went by Creek, and Barron Falls, but unfortunately the waterfalls were not falling because of the drought in recent months - 60mm of rain instead of their usual 600 at this time of year! We spent time at the Heritage market and the Butterfly Sanctuary and wandered through town before taking the SkyRail back to town where we went to the Tjapukai Aboriginal Park. There, Kim and I both tried playing the didgeridus and practiced throwing boomerangs, and Kim even practiced throwing spears. Interestingly, the targets are kangaroo silhouettes in lieu of America's typical human target. We got back to the hotel where we had to prepare our bags for our big rainforest hike tomorrow where we'll be camping at the top of another waterfall.
Yesterday, we flew in over the Great Barrier Reef (magnificent from the airplane) and into Cairns. We dumped our things at our hotel and headed out for our half day tour on the reef. We started in the "yellow submarine" - a really touristy sub type thing with glass below and to the sides. We got some great views of the reef at Green Island and Kim even got a cool video with her new digital camera (go mom! we said). Looking like funny frogs, we got our snorkeling gear on and went snorkeling in the reef - Kim saw a shark and we high-tailed it back to the shore. After mustering up a bit more courage (and getting used to breathing through our mouths and not our noses), Kim and I headed back out in the water and managed to finally get the hang of snorkeling (saw a parafish and others) by the time we had to leave.
Back on the hydrofoil, Kim had a canned rum and cola - recommended by Todd, one of our skippers - and I had the lemon lime with vodka premixed in a can as well. Good ideas, we thought and not bad, either!
So it's time to stop as we're running out of time. There was much more to blog about but we'll get to it later as we're both being eaten by bugs. (p.s. I had a Morton Bay Bug last night. You will have to wait till we get back from the rainforest to find out what that is).
Hani & Kim.
January 05, 2002
BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA
January 5, 2002
Finally, Kim and I have our Celsius menu in front of us so you can read on and be envious of our first meal in Australia. For starters, I was given a shrimp bisque and Kim had the Roma Tomato & Saffron Tea Consomme in a tea cup. Very yummy complimentary gift of the chef. For our primi piatta (first course for those of you who can't translate), Kim had the Roasted Tomato, Pepper & Egglplant Roulade, Marinated Goat Cheese, Tapenade, & Olive Bread. Sounds good, eh? I was served the Roma Tomato & Saffron Tea Consomme with Basil & Zucchini Tortellini. Kim and I are getting hungry just repeating our menu to you. Oi vey. Okay, secondi piatti (second courses, if you haven't caught on) - for Kim the Pan Roasted Ocean Trout Fillet (without the Grilled Scampi because she has been cursed with a shellfish allergy), Dill & Fennel Vinaigrette. Me, I had the Grilled Swordfish on Kipfler Potato, Asparagus & Black Fungi, Cabernet Vinegar. AND there's more! Our third course (I forgot how to translate "third") was Grilled Aged Grain Fed Fillet of Beef on Asparagus, Roasted Shallots & Trompettes de Mort for Kim and for myself Pan Roasted Rib Eye of Lamb on Spiced Egglplant, Roasted Garlic & Grape Tomatoes, Basil Oil.
We haven't even gotten to dessert yet and it's a good thing we skipped the Cheese course!
We were graced with another complimentary dessert starter which was so amazing, we were talking about it for days - panna cotta with fresh raspberries and a strawberry sauce. Next, our cappuccinos came out with the truffles and petit fours. We finished off with passionfruit souffle served with mango ice cream and fresh whipped cream!!!
It's time for Kim and I to go have another dinner now. We're starving!
We've had at least four or five meals of comparable grandeur for a fraction of U.S. prices! Someone recommended to us yesterday to just become fruit pickers to stay in this country and travel and eat. I think I could do that...
Okay, now that you've got all that in mind, here's how we've been burning off the calories:
Today Kim and I walked all around Brisbane, beginning at the Queen Street Mall where we each purchased additional luggage to carry home all the damn gifts we bought for you. Then we crossed the Victoria Bridge over the Brisbane River where we walked along a beautiful bricklined path at the Brisbane Arbour area with purple bougainvilla vines overhead. We browsed through the Saturday Market (buying your gifts to fill our luggage) and went by a really funny artificial beach along the riverside called Brekka Beach (something like that) where the locals seemed to thrill in the chlorinated pool-beach.
We walked onward across the brand-new Goodwill pedestrian bridge (back across the Brisbane River) to the Botanical Gardens which we're sure would've been gorgeous in Spring. That's a lot of walking - enough to burn off one of those dinners. Now it's time for us to refuel with another dinner in Brisbane.
Cheers to good food, good wine, and the good life.
Kim & Hani
January 5, 2002
Finally, Kim and I have our Celsius menu in front of us so you can read on and be envious of our first meal in Australia. For starters, I was given a shrimp bisque and Kim had the Roma Tomato & Saffron Tea Consomme in a tea cup. Very yummy complimentary gift of the chef. For our primi piatta (first course for those of you who can't translate), Kim had the Roasted Tomato, Pepper & Egglplant Roulade, Marinated Goat Cheese, Tapenade, & Olive Bread. Sounds good, eh? I was served the Roma Tomato & Saffron Tea Consomme with Basil & Zucchini Tortellini. Kim and I are getting hungry just repeating our menu to you. Oi vey. Okay, secondi piatti (second courses, if you haven't caught on) - for Kim the Pan Roasted Ocean Trout Fillet (without the Grilled Scampi because she has been cursed with a shellfish allergy), Dill & Fennel Vinaigrette. Me, I had the Grilled Swordfish on Kipfler Potato, Asparagus & Black Fungi, Cabernet Vinegar. AND there's more! Our third course (I forgot how to translate "third") was Grilled Aged Grain Fed Fillet of Beef on Asparagus, Roasted Shallots & Trompettes de Mort for Kim and for myself Pan Roasted Rib Eye of Lamb on Spiced Egglplant, Roasted Garlic & Grape Tomatoes, Basil Oil.
We haven't even gotten to dessert yet and it's a good thing we skipped the Cheese course!
We were graced with another complimentary dessert starter which was so amazing, we were talking about it for days - panna cotta with fresh raspberries and a strawberry sauce. Next, our cappuccinos came out with the truffles and petit fours. We finished off with passionfruit souffle served with mango ice cream and fresh whipped cream!!!
It's time for Kim and I to go have another dinner now. We're starving!
We've had at least four or five meals of comparable grandeur for a fraction of U.S. prices! Someone recommended to us yesterday to just become fruit pickers to stay in this country and travel and eat. I think I could do that...
Okay, now that you've got all that in mind, here's how we've been burning off the calories:
Today Kim and I walked all around Brisbane, beginning at the Queen Street Mall where we each purchased additional luggage to carry home all the damn gifts we bought for you. Then we crossed the Victoria Bridge over the Brisbane River where we walked along a beautiful bricklined path at the Brisbane Arbour area with purple bougainvilla vines overhead. We browsed through the Saturday Market (buying your gifts to fill our luggage) and went by a really funny artificial beach along the riverside called Brekka Beach (something like that) where the locals seemed to thrill in the chlorinated pool-beach.
We walked onward across the brand-new Goodwill pedestrian bridge (back across the Brisbane River) to the Botanical Gardens which we're sure would've been gorgeous in Spring. That's a lot of walking - enough to burn off one of those dinners. Now it's time for us to refuel with another dinner in Brisbane.
Cheers to good food, good wine, and the good life.
Kim & Hani
January 04, 2002
BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA
January 5, 2002
On the road yesterday, Kim and I went to Mt. Warning yesterday and wanted to trek up to the top of the mountain to be in the spot where the sun first hits the eastern coast of Australia. Unfortunately, by the time we got there, we realized it would be a 4-5 hour hike and we would've been caught in the rainforest at nightfall so we settled for a short hike (for "training"), caught a glimpse of the rainforest, came across a few wild turkeys (no wombats), and heard an array of cool bird calls.
Kim and I did, however, manage to go to the lighthouse while at Byron Bay where walked to the easternmost point of the Australian continent.
This morning Kim and I had a taste of toast with VEGEMITE, quoted in the song by Men at Work. It's a Kraft brand product and is basically the leftover yeast from beer. Gross. We both give it a thumbs down. We did manage to get a free hashbrown for smiling at the waiters, and will do a nice little walk around Brisbane and the Brisbane River this afternoon that the waiters recommended. So far, all the food we've eaten has been amazing and CHEAP compared to the States. Kim and I have had Italian, Thai, Indian, Australia (which is like fusion cuisine), and Japanese food. The Australians are great cooks and they have wonderful presentation - we haven't been disappointed by a single meal.
Oh, I forgot to tell you guys - Kim got to feed a giraffe at the zoo in Sydney. That was cool. We also saw a Tasmanian devil who gallops around (he doesn't look anything like the cartoon), an echidna who waddles, a dingo (looks just like a domestic dog), a platypus (funny creatures they are), and wallabies and kangaroos.
Okay, that's all we can remember for now.
More to come (you can bet on it).
Kim & Hani
January 5, 2002
On the road yesterday, Kim and I went to Mt. Warning yesterday and wanted to trek up to the top of the mountain to be in the spot where the sun first hits the eastern coast of Australia. Unfortunately, by the time we got there, we realized it would be a 4-5 hour hike and we would've been caught in the rainforest at nightfall so we settled for a short hike (for "training"), caught a glimpse of the rainforest, came across a few wild turkeys (no wombats), and heard an array of cool bird calls.
Kim and I did, however, manage to go to the lighthouse while at Byron Bay where walked to the easternmost point of the Australian continent.
This morning Kim and I had a taste of toast with VEGEMITE, quoted in the song by Men at Work. It's a Kraft brand product and is basically the leftover yeast from beer. Gross. We both give it a thumbs down. We did manage to get a free hashbrown for smiling at the waiters, and will do a nice little walk around Brisbane and the Brisbane River this afternoon that the waiters recommended. So far, all the food we've eaten has been amazing and CHEAP compared to the States. Kim and I have had Italian, Thai, Indian, Australia (which is like fusion cuisine), and Japanese food. The Australians are great cooks and they have wonderful presentation - we haven't been disappointed by a single meal.
Oh, I forgot to tell you guys - Kim got to feed a giraffe at the zoo in Sydney. That was cool. We also saw a Tasmanian devil who gallops around (he doesn't look anything like the cartoon), an echidna who waddles, a dingo (looks just like a domestic dog), a platypus (funny creatures they are), and wallabies and kangaroos.
Okay, that's all we can remember for now.
More to come (you can bet on it).
Kim & Hani
January 03, 2002
BYRON BAY, AUSTRALIA
January 4, 2002
We drove up much of the coast yesterday, stopping at Hawkes Point for a good overlook of the ocean (and short hike for our "training"), as well as taking a scenic drive from Hunter Valley further up north. Kim and I drove through a smoky area, with small fires on the side of the road, and blackened forests as well. There were firemen out on the roads and we later found out on the radio that the PCH had been closed off in the area we drove through a few hours after we passed. The bush fires are mostly further out and have not curtailed any of our trip, however, it was very sad to see all those trees dying so close by!
We stopped in charming Coffs Harbour for some fish & chips, and caught the sun setting over the harbour but unfortunately, all hotels and motels were booked solid so we drove onward toward Grafton where we stayed the night and have just duly arrived in Byron Bay - major beach town. We'll hang out at the beach for the morning & afternoon, then head to Mt. Warning - a volcanic plug - where we'll hike up to the first spot where the sun hits the Australian Coast. Cool, huh?
By evening, we'll be in Brisbane (where dad tells me there's the bluest sky he ever saw - of course, that was back in the 60's) to spend a couple of days there before we fly to Cairns for our rainforest adventure. Off to the BEACH!
January 4, 2002
We drove up much of the coast yesterday, stopping at Hawkes Point for a good overlook of the ocean (and short hike for our "training"), as well as taking a scenic drive from Hunter Valley further up north. Kim and I drove through a smoky area, with small fires on the side of the road, and blackened forests as well. There were firemen out on the roads and we later found out on the radio that the PCH had been closed off in the area we drove through a few hours after we passed. The bush fires are mostly further out and have not curtailed any of our trip, however, it was very sad to see all those trees dying so close by!
We stopped in charming Coffs Harbour for some fish & chips, and caught the sun setting over the harbour but unfortunately, all hotels and motels were booked solid so we drove onward toward Grafton where we stayed the night and have just duly arrived in Byron Bay - major beach town. We'll hang out at the beach for the morning & afternoon, then head to Mt. Warning - a volcanic plug - where we'll hike up to the first spot where the sun hits the Australian Coast. Cool, huh?
By evening, we'll be in Brisbane (where dad tells me there's the bluest sky he ever saw - of course, that was back in the 60's) to spend a couple of days there before we fly to Cairns for our rainforest adventure. Off to the BEACH!
January 02, 2002
HUNTER VALLEY, AUSTRALIA
At the library.
January 3, 2002
Kim and I have just enjoyed a lovely morning eating breakfast by the vineyards in Hunter Valley, one of Australia's oldest viticulture areas. We did a speed tasting tour of six wineries yesterday as soon as we arrived - I managed with purchasing only one bottle of wine while Kim's damage was much more severe - eight bottles. We think we'll have to consume a couple before we fly onward so as to lighten her load back to the States. The vineyards and countryside here are beautiful and we've been met with sunny weather. Each vineyard has its unique charm and many have rose bushes that line along their roads.
Yesterday we rented a car - and Kim and I have perfected the use of the windshield wipers - the turn signals are on your RIGHT! So we at least warn all the cars around us that we don't know what we're doing and then they can steer clear. We've managed to stay on the correct - that is, the LEFT - side of the road most of the time. On the right turns, we remind each other: "Go to the FAR side!" It's definitely a blog experience, we declared, to be driving on the wrong side of the road.
Before leaving Sydney, we went to see the Shackleton Adventure on the largest IMAX screen in the world - eight stories high - about the trials and tribulations of the Antarctic voyage of 27 men - which made the AIDS ride look like a cinch. We also managed to have dinner in under an hour - quite speedy for these Australians! Our dinners generally take nearly two hours (usually more) and are generally about four or five courses. It's a good thing Kim and I are "in training" for our rainforest trek so we've managed to walk a lot of it off.
Now we head further up the Pacific Coast (also Route 1 here) on our way to Byron Bay, where we will (maybe) stay the night. We'll try blogging from the road!
Cheers,
Hani & Kim
At the library.
January 3, 2002
Kim and I have just enjoyed a lovely morning eating breakfast by the vineyards in Hunter Valley, one of Australia's oldest viticulture areas. We did a speed tasting tour of six wineries yesterday as soon as we arrived - I managed with purchasing only one bottle of wine while Kim's damage was much more severe - eight bottles. We think we'll have to consume a couple before we fly onward so as to lighten her load back to the States. The vineyards and countryside here are beautiful and we've been met with sunny weather. Each vineyard has its unique charm and many have rose bushes that line along their roads.
Yesterday we rented a car - and Kim and I have perfected the use of the windshield wipers - the turn signals are on your RIGHT! So we at least warn all the cars around us that we don't know what we're doing and then they can steer clear. We've managed to stay on the correct - that is, the LEFT - side of the road most of the time. On the right turns, we remind each other: "Go to the FAR side!" It's definitely a blog experience, we declared, to be driving on the wrong side of the road.
Before leaving Sydney, we went to see the Shackleton Adventure on the largest IMAX screen in the world - eight stories high - about the trials and tribulations of the Antarctic voyage of 27 men - which made the AIDS ride look like a cinch. We also managed to have dinner in under an hour - quite speedy for these Australians! Our dinners generally take nearly two hours (usually more) and are generally about four or five courses. It's a good thing Kim and I are "in training" for our rainforest trek so we've managed to walk a lot of it off.
Now we head further up the Pacific Coast (also Route 1 here) on our way to Byron Bay, where we will (maybe) stay the night. We'll try blogging from the road!
Cheers,
Hani & Kim
