Sai Gon, March 25, 2001.
Last Friday night, I got in touch with Chuong and I went to meet him at his tennis courts with his friends. There, I met two sons of one of my cousins who just passed away two weeks ago. I suppose children of first cousins are called first cousins once removed? Does anybody really know (if you do, please tell me)? My cousin, Hong Khac Dao, was a renowned film producer here in Vietnam, and someone who was immensly caring and altruistic, and I am so sorry that I never got the chance to meet him. Chuong was very close to him and reminisced with me for a short while. Said he’s not like any Hong I’ll ever meet. I don’t know if Chuong remembers Souris very well.

Spur of the moment, I went to Vung Tau on Saturday morning for an overnight trip to the beach with Chuong and his friend Khanh. To get there, we went by high speed boat – a sort of capsule that can carry around 100 – 120 passengers. Vung Tau is a nice little peninsula that is accessible by boat or road. It costs $130,000VND round trip (less than $10USD).

When we got there, I met Bac Bang, his wife, their four children (Hung, Chi, Thuy, & Do), grammy, and other friends of theirs in their hundred-year-old house. Hung was an old school friend of Chuong’s, and as it turns out, the father (Bac Bang) used to play cards with my dad. Dad used to fly them into Sai Gon from Bien Thuy (or something like that; it lies between Phan Thiet and Sai Gon) to play cards. Flying was safer than the relatively short ride because the roads were far too dangerous to travel back then. Mrs. Bang showed me a metal swivel office chair that dad had given them – four of them, she said. They still have 2 and the 3rd and 4th were given to Dr. Vien (someone who also knew dad, I think) and someone else (both of which were now lost, she explained). She mentioned something about Tableaux Noire – perhaps the place they used to go play? Very very very nice people, so hospitable, and kept us well fed. And they send their regards to dad.

We spent some time at their home, went to the beach, and I took a walk with Khanh to Bach Dinh (aka Villa Blanche or White Palace) where the old king used as a holiday home for his family. Standing up on the hill upon which it lay, I could look down at the Su trees (whose yellow flowers have a sweet aroma), onto the beach highway (reminiscent of Nice), and watched the sun set on the Pacific. Khanh and I then headed to a small beachfront cafe where we ordered ice cream. “What flavors have you got?” we asked. “Fruit, cacao, and coffee.” I ordered coffee ice cream and Khanh ordered chocolate. Out came two servings of coconut ice cream. Coconut? Yes. One topped with chocolate and the other topped with coffee.

We headed back to the tennis courts where Hung and Chuong and others were playing. A man we met briefly before our walk, Mr. Chi, a youthful 60-year-old who played tennis with Chuong, offered to let us stay in his home instead of at the hotel. We accepted, and went to drop our things off in his home. (Is this safe in America?) Chu (Mr.) Chi, the boys, and I all headed to a sports bar to watch the Czech vs. Ireland soccer game commentated in Vietnamese. The guy kept saying ICEland instead of IREland. A quarter of the way through, Thuy asked me if I understood the game – I thought, “I’m not exercising my eyeballs,” but I said “not the commentary, but I’m following.” (I am only amused by this and mean it not as a put down in any way whatsoever. This disclaimer is placed here for the future possibility that some Vietnamese person might one day read this and may not catch the Americanism of the tone). At halftime, we went to another cafe/sports bar owned by friends of Hung’s and watched the rest of the game – no commentary, just karaoke in the background. Imagine watching a soccer game with Power of Love (by Celine Dion) sung by a Vietnamese in lieu of commentary. Mr. Chi and I went home and the boys went out late enough to then catch the Romania – Italy game at 2:30 a.m. I got up at 5:30, cabbed to Mrs. Bang’s at 6:00, went bicycling with her to the beach, swam a few laps, biked all over Vung Tau with Khanh, ate and then ate again, and then caught our boat back to the city. So here I am.
Good night and good morning… H.